This is probably not a coincidence that the cuisine of Alexandre Mazzia flourishes in a port – Marseille. It was indeed a city like this one, open to the world, but not convenient to conquer, conducive to the passions of any kind, for a leader uncompromising, and adventurer, who grew up in the Congo, to do a sparkle to its plates. The salvation gourmet does not necessarily lie in the obsession with locavore: one has the right to also wanting to devour the entire planet.
Warning: Mazzia does not in the loan-to-swallow, do not brush not its customers in the direction of the hair, sends compositions striking, but not alluring all at the long menu that he calls “travel” and which are strictly organized by him: not possible for sporting them on the map in AM, 25 covered, decor ascetic in a street without its charm. You have been warned. Can we blame a leader to have a style decided, not to prick his own ideas into the cooking pots of his colleagues, we wean from lobster to force us to love herring?
It seeks brawls with the pungent, the bitter, almost raw, and, in the end, it is the greedy curious who wins
The Gault&Millau guide, which usually has a nose for a sniff before a lot of other talents that we can expect to hear, has made Alexandre Mazzia its “chef of the year 2019”. It is necessary to see the recipient, concentrated like a chess player, goes behind a small flat-band inside in which he withdraws at the last moment and shoots and flowers, to get an idea of the man.
That does eat it on its wooden tables free from tablecloths? Things that are often unseen, alliances with unusual but thoughts: we do not attempt here to create a buzz through a feud with artificial on the color of a blanquette. Or to maintain a fever aesthetic on Instagram. It is proposed that the palace of other ways to enjoy the edible. One example, which is impossible to summarize all of the scholarly work of Alexander Mazzia but the good illustration: its sandblasted eel chocolate. If this kind of fantasy means nothing, she is devoted to his creator in the sea of sarcasm. However, would you believe that it is good. Maybe even awesome. The bitterness of the cocoa on the fat of the fish, the touch of hot pepper that ignites the mixture as the spark plug of the internal combustion engine is rumble the machine, the ideal texture of the bite make this discovery a revelation.
Alexandre Mazzia mania the chili with gusto, it is sometimes the hand a little heavy, but, once again, why he criticised it to shake off its customers when it absolves them of the heads of agreement which reassure their shots ladles of sour cream? Our Marseilles, himself, seeks brawls with the pungent, the bitter, almost raw, and, in the end, it is the greedy curious who wins. Surely there are dissenters of this radical approach. They will not be able to say, however, that it has sought to erode: the style Mazzia exudes sincerity.
A preference marked for the smoked
The great “trip” dinner is a meal sequential. At every stop turned up three small plates or bowls to enjoy. A lot of fish and vegetables, almost no meat. Of spices, a preference marked for the smoked. A few repetitions pardonable. And, most importantly, rhetorical complex that leave you breathless.
So the “semolina/orange blossom/wasabi/garum/soup shells”, a combination unflattering to the eye – it is in the beigeasse Minitel – but staggering in the mouth: here is a couscous farm and a little crazy-resistant to a tsunami iodized. Or “eggs of trout and salmon, wild marinated in sake/milk smoked”, a sort of loch Ness delectable texture extraordinary highlight a few shards of hazelnut.
Rusks plant. Alexandre Mazzia
Other very great moments gustatory: “mussels/mackerel/herring/coconut/beet/milk rocket”. At this point, the tide was in green, and the blue fish, overlooked by too many large tables, took their revenge gourmet cuisine in a fraternal duel. The “lobster/cassava/carrots milk chicken, seasoned with rice wine vinegar and cumin, sprinkled with a texture “vegetable” as a dry giboulée of matcha green tea, is witchcraft. We find the confusing ping-pong sweet/salty of the meal, and the bisque, in a version that is overkill held by this eggnog to carrot and cassava, which is most unusual in our latitudes. Next, on a roller varnish, the “pop-corn, seaweed/lemon-geranium” is eaten with the fingers, and offers the surprise of a lifetime after the explosion, crisp, flesh of crustacean warm but refusing to be cooked. The small “ceps/bottarga/jus poultry roasted/juice sate” take to the road, especially with a texture always hypermaîtrisée.
of Course, sequences fly a little lower. The “cake “terrace”/sardine/lardo di Colonnata/grapefruit”, of which one grasps the idea, is a bit suffocating-christian. The cooking of the hake line was, this evening, by too supported. The “gambero rosso/avocado/cauliflower smoked/juice head/chili pepper” was redundant after the masterly lesson of lobsters.
But what a slap that this tapioca spicy served with side of hake, fake caviar, a true wonder, who defies the tooth and releases the flavours that came out of nowhere!
‘re not going to believe that Mazzia is an illusionist that quenching of the vegetables in the cocoa for gogos shout out to the genius. No, because here, too, it is thought, weighed, controlled
Before the desserts proper, a raspberry sorbet-harissa is a promise: we will not spoon in hand. A promise kept. The trilogy “ice mango/saffron/pineapple” is of high race, with the taming of bold of the divine pistil. It is necessary to dwell on the “chocolate/turnip/bacon”, to approach it with the same circumspection as the eel of all time. Will not believe that Mazzia is an illusionist that quenching of the vegetables in the cocoa for gogos shout out to the genius. No, because here, too, it is thought, weighed, controlled. Quite simply, it is delicious and, in the restaurant, it is that which differentiates the talent of clowning culinary – well, sometimes, for little that it is presented in manner picturesque, is curiously reach to the pinnacle by some.
So, the turnip takes under the knife Mazzia in the form of a small host, very thin, very white, slightly bitter, deliberately impious in his communion with a chocolate parfait in which the bacon has transferred its smoky flavour. The beautiful is intelligible without reflection, said Kant. The good, it is the same: regardless of the composition of a dish, it is the immediate effect it produces. And the “chocolate/turnip/bacon”, if you like the chocolate, is a masterpiece. The “texture “barb” at the café/kiwi/coffee hibiscus”, the “lemon/guava/ginger”, the “jam of milk/matcha green tea” are also under the control of a directory sweet of the first order.
It does not feed at Alexandre Mazzia: are plunged into it, and a current takes you. Don’t fight. It is this abandonment that you feed them.
AM by Alexandre Mazzia. 9, rue François Rocca, 13008 Marseille. Tel.: 04 91 24 83 63. Six menus, from 57 to 170 € (no map). Closed Sunday and Monday.