In Japan, the success of the very sharp spring-summer 2019 Kim Jones for Dior had ran ahead. Forty-eight hours prior to its worldwide launch on the 1st of December, the department store Isetan was the first of a selection of models. The previous night, Tokyoïtes camped in front of the famous department store. A few hours after the opening of the doors, there was nothing left. The next day, same scenario at the shop amirale Dior, within the mall Ginza Six dedicated to luxury brands. And not talking about fans of the british designer, who have had the privilege of being invited to the show of the précollection fall 2019 orchestrated, last Friday, in the japanese capital. Most already wore sweat-shirts decorated with a bee funny of the artist Kaws, tennis “canvas oblique” pouch and Saddle, reinterpretation of men’s bag best-seller, the claw of the avenue Montaigne. In the aftermath, the French house received, for 72 hours, and their proposed order without further delay some parts of this second opus, they will receive even before the official arrival in radius – expected in may next, for all the impatient.
“Christian Dior had a particular connection with Japan. On several occasions, he was inspired by the kimono”
just Eight months after the recruitment of an artistic director from Louis Vuitton, the mechanical stimulus of Dior the male is perfectly oiled. “Kim Jones has a talent crazy! says Pietro Beccari, president and CEO of Christian Dior Couture. He spends hours in our archives, dig up treasures, revisits, crosses his multiple ideas with the work of artists. From our side, we do everything we can to accompany it. If, historically, the best collections are the most authentic, in our digital world, there is even less room for false pretenses. The integrity of a designer is crucial. Very soon after his arrival in the house, Kim wanted to do a précollection and present it to Tokyo. He feels the Japan as a person, most of his friends are based there. He had already in mind to work with
Hajime Sorayama (illustrator known for his Sexy Robots, pin-up androids hypersexualisées, editor’s NOTE). I have validated the project without hesitation, because I knew that by adopting an approach that is sincere, we will obtain an extraordinary event… of course, this country is a captive market, but this is not the primary reason for the show relocated. The United States are also important – our e-shop has also beaten records on the u.s. market over the weekend. If he had told me San Francisco rather than
Tokyo for matters of style, we défilerions today in San Francisco. The important thing is that he feels in his element, as the inspiration or its only engine.”
Dior show in Tokyo. Yannis Vlamos
Kim Jones is a party on the observation that four of the twenty collections signed by the founder, between 1947 and 1957, made reference to the land of the Rising Sun. “Christian Dior had a particular connection with Japan,” explains the designer. On several occasions, he was inspired by the kimono. The cherry blossoms are a print flagship of the house. We cultivate the same passion for this country. Several decades separate us, but I found it interesting to work on these matches for the first show “prefall” man. By all means, it has sought to evolve the mode. It is also my goal, and Japan is the place of innovation par excellence.”
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In the atrium of the Telecom Center Building, a monumental sculpture of a Sexy Robot Hajime Sorayama stands at the center of the podium, circular, covered with branches of cherry blossoms. These representations of modernity and tradition of the japanese mingle in the printed, ready-to-wear and accessories throughout the presentation. But, in the preamble, to remind people that Japan has no equal in progress in textiles, the fashion show of this collection that is rich in effects of matter opens on a total look in knitwear technique (see page 29). Reinvented, the weaving of classic houndstooth – dear to the founder – costumes has irregularities unprecedented alteration and embroidery. The goat returned to “morphe” into lace, silk to the hem of a jacket. The jacquard sweaters draw the canning emblematic of the house of avenue Montaigne in giant format. More tissue techniques to divert the leopard pattern, to mimic the canvas monogram with the envi or metallic effects, solarized over of parts more sportswear: pants with cut-outs and straps, jackets multipoches, jackets rights to the quickdraw manly to offset rich fabrics very Mr. Dior’s…
“Everything is luxurious, of course! slips Kim Jones. It is a couture house, with which the male universe must be aligned. Certain models are targeted at young customers, other parts of men who are more established. The idea is that all the world can be found in this proposal.”
When the spring-summer 2019 had been able to leave a customer history on its end, the diversity of this précollection stuff greatly about. “The costumes are 30 % of sales,” he continues. It is important to preserve it while updating our versions the iconic. But we also create new standards in order to attract a different audience.”
The jacket “cut oblique” (double croisure closed with a single button) which had been unanimously last June, in addition to a model with wide straps at the neck reminiscent of the finishes of kimonos, as well as variations in the wool dark. “Our customers love the black and we must meet them,” adds Kim Jones, who makes it a point to check all the boxes. Our legacy, it is also the denim launched by Hedi Slimane (artistic director of Dior Homme from 2000 to 2007, editor’s NOTE). At the time, his jeans were such a great success that we have developed throughout the series.”
In his tracks, English also has the cashmere sweaters, the tuxedo, the leather goods, shoes… “The collection is exceedingly rich, was delighted to Pietro Beccari. There’s something for all profiles, for all ages. In less than a season, Kim has considerably expanded the tailoring.” This parade “prefall” – a first in the history of men’s fashion – is an appetizer before the autumn-winter 2019-2020, which will be presented on January 19, 2019 to Paris. At seven weeks of D-day, the talented and very organized Mr Jones would have already put a final point to this collection. If, sometimes, new recruits struggle to confirmer the test, after a first show applauded, the concern no longer has to be at Dior.