The double-curtains of flowers, predominantly red and green of the dining room at the 3-star Epicure at the hotel Bristol in Paris, gave the place a character quietly bourgeois. It is not here in the stage, or the bombastic. Customers come to dine with confidence at Frechon, the discreet. This afternoon and evening, in front of the stoves of the rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, rather than run the tv shows and abandon the place to a deputy. Apart from that his second is a masterpiece of the first order, organizer, and demanding: Franck Leroy, best worker of France, such as Frechon.

Eric Frechon. Jan Prerovsky

In this hotel belonging to the Oetker family, like the mythical Eden-Roc of cap d’antibes, everything flows in the kindness: floor manager, host, chef, butlers, chef sommelier. We never try to impose, we advise. Each stanza of the card Frechon wished to feast on. For twenty years, he reigns over the kitchens of le Bristol. Which allows him to serve his dishes fetishes, macaroni stuffed chicken, black truffle, artichoke and duck foie gras au gratin au vieux parmesan, which delighted Nicolas Sarkozy, president of the Republic, crossing the street.

The Bristol, it is a beautiful, big house. A palace, which remains a family home. A pleasure to see the atmosphere at Epicure, where the 3-star move without impress. It comes to eat, simply to take advantage of the talent of a great leader and inspire his compositions.

Eric’s happening in the room. He inspires confidence: langoustines royales, just cooked in thyme-lemon, onion, mango, broth pliers with citrus and coriander ; spectacular poularde de Bresse baked in the bladder to the yellow wine, asparagus and morels cooked in the broth of leeks, potatoes and black truffle. It is beautiful and it is good, very good.

Epicure, hotel Bristol, 112, rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, Paris Viii(01.53.43.43.40). Menu: 145 € (lunch), 380 € (8 dishes). Map: 175 to 290 € (without drink). Open every day. Valet parking.

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