Twelve minutes, watch in hand, greetings included! The parades are faster. The models are at no charge. And are often limited to one-way, outgoing end of the podium so that their silhouette from the back, on the way back, does not appear in the photos on the following passage. And each look is exposed a handful of seconds at the sight of the professionals, while the smallest of these parts has required countless hours, or even days of development and the development… The supremacy of the image at the time of the social networks! However, this acceleration of the pace of fashion shows, does not always do justice to the collections for men stitched traditions. Some of the houses classic have understood it, in favor of new submissions in the show-room.

The Fashion Week Italian men for the autumn-winter 2019-2020 began on Friday night with the parade of Ermenegildo Zegna Couture in the monumental entrance of the Milano Centrale train station. Giant screens broadcast the show outside of the building. The claw seeks to create the event by setting the scene and the symbolism of the place -a crossroads of encounters and mix which pass some 120 million people per year. Yet, the originality of his dressing room lies above all in the tissues. Graphics as panoramas of the city, blending architecture and tags, appear in fabrics, colors night. The artistic director Alessandro Sartori relaxes the dressing room urban. It multiplies the alternatives to the suit, favors the jackets mismatched, jackets with broad shoulders and size marked by a rib, the blazers, the canadian and the jackets strung on sweaters rather than shirts. Pants with pockets and straps, the boots between sneakers and rangers support a about to the address of a new customer.

That is what makes the success of a brand or a creator? His paw, his models or his know-how unique !

A sewing workshop and its cutters in the work office decor at Dolce & Gabbana. A presenter delivers even comments on the models, in the manner of catwalk couture of the past. Called Eleganza, the collection is to break with the previous seasons. She comes back to the origin of the success of the two designers -the perfect cuts that flatter the silhouette, a glamorous Italian that extends from the classical to the baroque – and is relieved of an excess of logos, inscriptions and embroidery, in a spirit of cool. The “digital natives” who obsessed Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana until very recently are no longer in line-of-sight, until the choice of casting. There will be a sequel to the scandal of the show in Shanghai, born on Instagram. The home ensures that this shift had been imagined well before. It is true that this proposal of the 114 passages, more sober and mature than the others, has not been developed in a few weeks. Moreover, it confirms a net slow-down in the style of sportswear, pure and hard, already seen on the catwalks of London, as at the Pitti Uomo in Florence.

what makes the success of a brand or a creator? His paw, his models or his know-how unique! Originally, Marni has made a name in women’s fashion with fur worked in an unconventional way. Two decades have passed, the house was sold to OTB Group Renzo Rosso, the founder Consuelo Castiglioni has been replaced by Francesco Risso, who does not share the same aesthetic. Of course, but there is, in the work of the young Milanese, a similar desire to do battle with the establishment. If flashes are blurring the genres, far from the conventions of Italian fashion, from coats in sheets, heavy jackets and baggy pants, sweaters and jackets in jacquards have something admirable.

“Born in Britain” is reminiscent of the bristol’s Neil Barrett, English designer from Milan, who celebrates 20 years of its independent house. A screen goes on, in the background, images of night cities. We think New York, Tokyo… but on the podium he is the eccentricity of london review with the pragmatism Italian. The stylist pick of colors and prints in the current punk, cuts, and details on the side of the school uniforms and military for this collection mixed-the most eclectic and developed than in past seasons.

there is a similar idea of mix-and-match in Versace. The presentation begins in red and black, with leather and printed straps, and harnesses. Then, switch to the logos galore, in bright colours and baroque motifs superimposed to the excess, before you mix prince of wales and the boa in feathers of egrets, denim and sequins, shorts, sport jacket and tuxedo… This blend evokes some accounts on Instagram that pass from one image to another without transition, and reveal the personality of their author in the hollow. This house has known great years 1980 and 1990 with a guest who is not cold in the eyes. His fans today are amply served by Donatella Versace is very in verve.


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