The Fashion Week man Milan has never been so short! Twenty-seven fashion shows in the official programme, collected over 72 hours, while the week in paris, which begins this afternoon, spans six days and includes no less than ten shows over the last session. They are far from the years 2000 where presentations Italian gave the international trends. Where is the city lombard lived in tune with all these events around the menswear.

This will be in berne, however, is only a facade. The claws are local performing quite well. To start with Gucci, under the leadership of artistic Alessandro Michele, who displays figures insolent, but deserted the catwalks man of Milan. Bottega Veneta, Cavalli, Etro, Ferragamo, Antonio Marras, Missoni, Moncler, Moschino and, for the first time, Giorgio Armani, prefer, them, also, organize a parade, mixed for the collections of ready-to-wear women’s clothing. Each mark is justified by a concern for personal consistency, but his defection is adding to the other, serves to weaken the overall image of the capital of male fashion transalpine. An impact is all the more regrettable that her uncompromising representatives come to deliver a very good vintage autumn-winter 2019-2020.

“this is Milan!” says a buyer at the output of the Prada show, the highlight of the day on Sunday. The parade was held in the recent extension of the fondazione Prada, in a large box lined with open-celled foam that muffles the noise. LED candles are crisscrossing the podium, in the dim light. This atmosphere evokes a religious building. Or a film noir. Black as the first silhouettes, jackets and coats in the middle of the case boxy worn next to the skin, soon to be strapped multiple belts to induce a certain voltage. Miuccia Prada revisits its cuts favorite of mind, the seventies in satins, adds apparel pockets of the officer, sign some parts of the red line of “Prada Sport” and a type of lovemaking accessory, the whole of pouches and backpacks, stacking the volumes. The bright colors of sweaters in large knit twisted slamming in the dressing room is deceptively sober. Motifs of roses crossed lightning like knives that are more pungent… The applause is unprecedented during this Fashion Week.

The collection Emporio Armani is inspired by the wild world, of nature and of the freedoms offered by the large spaces

Without any transition, Dean and Dan Caten for Dsquared2 arise out of their own style. Their collection is located in altitude, but rather on the tracks of The Sweet Madness (the famous club of Val-d’isère), and on those of snow-capped mountains. Neon colors, patterns, splattered, print, solarized and sequins galore, the proposal did not reach the most beautiful peaks.

Rocco Iannone sign his third season for Pal Zileri, the claw acquired by the same investment fund that Valentino and Balmain. He renews the dressing room a classic in focusing on original fabric – drapery decorated jacquards between matt and gloss, silk velvet appearance smooth, poplin printed flower meddling from the wide stripes. The refinement of the fabrics is sometimes too precious, so that the cut of trousers, jackets and coats are crisp and manly.

The first model Emporio Armani leaps on the podium. The collection is inspired by the wild world, of nature and of the freedoms offered by the great outdoors. The first total looks black to emphasise the effects of materials, jacquards and stitches imitating embossed leather exotic, or fabrics hairy, and fluffy, which bear an uncanny resemblance to the fur, so that it is tissue “strictly ecological” stresses the note of intent. At a time when more and more brands exclude material of animal origin in their offer, the Italian designer made, for her part, the demonstration by the number that you can use other fibers. There is virtually hair in all the passages, large jackets as fleeces of yetis the boots and heater passes way skin of rabbit, in this collection that explores the universe of trekking and technical clothing, as well as the denim, using a canvas of a blue shaded very mineral.

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