In the flat country that is his, Florent Ladeyn is carving out a small empire. Faithful to his terroir, his family, his ethics of cook locavore of strict obedience. This artist of 34 years, including the final 2013 “Top Chef” has boosted the notoriety without having it deviate from its road, has just opened his last address, in the heart of Old Lille.
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The project was so close to his heart for a long time: to allow the greatest number of feeding properly at small prices. It already offers a lunch menu at 21 € in his hostel star of the Green Mount goes even further, in a registry prolo, Bierbuik (“belly beer”): you enter the tavern, modern to jucher on a stool when he releases one, and the taste of the plates around 3 €, up to € 12 for the half-squab cooked, like all the rest, with the wood fire. Chips competition, salads, fresh fruits and vegetables, beers galore, and many small and original, brewed on-site.
The service is available until late in the night, a boon for out-starving in the cinema or the opera. Average for a real meal: 10 to 15 €. On the first floor, Bloemeke (small flower): a room more quiet with a formula at 25 €, chipée at Bloempot (flowerpot), the “canteen” flemish which hackneyed cards of the cuisine of lille five years ago and continues to play to sold-out the partition bistronomique Florent Ladeyn.
Why he makes us so happy, this young, bearded, blue-eyed and improbable haircuts, associated with his childhood friend Kevin, and his cousin Clement? Because it is inspired. Worker. Generous. Especially, because his sincerity gives his business a perfect coherence. Florent Ladeyn, it is a radically fresh in perpetual motion.
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in the falafel, lentils and herbs of the Bierbuik (1,50 €) the same impulse, the same attention as in one of the most elaborate dishes of the Green Mount. One finds in the decoration of mottled from the Bloempot, which will soon remake a little beauty, the same spirit that in the five rooms, recently inaugurated the Green Mount: comfort without the fat useless that bears in it the promise of a good meal, or beautiful dreams. It is attable to Lille with the same pleasure as we wake up to Boeschepe. One of the greatest leaders of the Twentieth century wrote a book called The Kitchen, it is much more than recipes. Florent Ladeyn takes over and reinvents day after day, his demonstration of the theorem of Alain Chapel. As only succeed in this talented generation, the best of the best – I think of Amélie Darvas, the prodigy of Äponem at Vailhan (Hérault) or Alexandre Gauthier, the genius of La Grenouillère, la Madelaine-sous-Montreuil (Pas-de-Calais).
Reflection on the raw and the cooked
Around her recipes, Ladeyn installs a universe, a way to receive, get comfortable, without sacrificing quality. The base, it is his kitchen, and not a decor trend that it would seek to match dishes hostages of the mode. We feel, in each of its restaurants, a sort of joy to be there, while enjoying the rigour of the head. Because the shoulder of rabbit with 7 € in the Bierbuik is primed with just as much know-how, for example, the smashing chicken, wine sauce of nuts, white asparagus and lettuce in a wood-fire going that night (24 may, grand sunset offered, it’s not pouring rain, not all the days) in the menu at 60 €: a delight scoundrel to nibble on the tip of the fingers to Lille, a great dish to Boeschepe.
The kitchen Ladeyn is a permanent reflection on the raw and the cooked – if Lévi-Strauss had come to dinner at Boeschepe, he would have found, in this pampa French and almost belgian, afterword. The work of vegetables, in particular, denotes a science of the product and its flavour is intrinsic that you would like to meet more often. The use of fire wood (real wood, not coal) opens to Florent Ladeyn prospects wonderful, so that it will redevelop this summer in the Green Mount to get the best out of the coals. Pickles, brine, fermentation… This masterpiece was curious yesterday and looked to the future master of the tool box of the master chef modern, which is akin furiously to what was practiced in the past, the instinct, and in the farms.
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Let’s take a look at Green Mt. The kohlrabi, previously marinated in whey and goat disguised as a turban edible, cap a association fennel-mackerel-flowers of elderberry that makes you start the meal on the hats of wheels. The red mullet, green asparagus, emulsion whipped at the verbena key, such as the poultry to perfection. The skewer of zucchini, hollandaise sauce with sage, demonstrates a strong knowledge of Escoffier and a sense of nature in his time. French fries to dip in a sauce maroilles, in a nod disarming the great specialty that was popular in the North, make a passage in their cone of kraft paper. It is joyful as a parade of majorettes, to the ducasse of the village – here, “ducasse” is synonymous with celebration of the street and bonne franquette. At the time of the dessert, an ice cream with sorrel, blaze tart, appears caparaçonnée of meringue between two small dungeons, egg white mounted snow with the texture of marshmallow, bathed in a tea of hawthorn, gentle and comforting. Beautiful.
Florent Ladeyn offers a lunch menu at 21 € in his hostel starry Green Mont in Boeschepe. Caspar Miskin
The cave is almost entirely filled with wine “nature”, but if you don’t enjoy especially these strange drinks, trust the sommelier: Orane has some references that are compatible with the palace conservatives, his smile will do the rest. Otherwise, drink the beer or the water, the meal will not be the least memorable.
The leaders love to tell stories to their clients ; the experience teaches us that they do not leave as happy as if they were not lied to. There are only truths in the world of Florent Ladeyn, take it or leave it. We gain a lot to take. It is necessary to make the journey to Lille or de Boeschepe. The best thing is to visit the two: in this Ch’ti, you will be welcome everywhere.
The Inn of the Green Mount . 1318 rue du Mont Noir, Boeschepe (59). Tel.: 03 28 49 41 26. Menus at 21 € (déj.), 40 or 60 €. Five rooms 101 €, breakfast 10 €. Closed sun. and lun.
Bloempot . 22, rue des Bouchers, Lille (59). Menus at 40 or 60 €. Closed sun., lun. and mar. evening.
Bierbuik . 19, rue Royale, Lille, france (59). Service very late for the late night (until 2 a.m. on the night of sam. the dim.). Closed lun. and mar.
Bloemeke . Same address. Booking: www.bierbuik.fr. Unique formula with 25 €. Closed lun. and mar.