I have known Frédéric Simonin in London in 2006, L’atelier de Joël Robuchon. It served as the dishes are beautiful and original, out of the imagination of the best chef in the world and interpreted with talent by chef Frédéric Simonin, who had won 2 stars.
Since 2010, he has opened a restaurant of his own, in Paris. Best worker of France, promotion 2018, he has just published a book where Joel Robuchon had written the preface before his disappearance. Sacred testimony of a master to his disciple. In the pages of parade recipes-soaked lessons of his mentor. A book dedicated to the association Bleu-Blanc-Coeur, which advocates “for well feed animals to feed people”. Eleven portraits of the producers provide insight on the products used by Frédéric Simonin, in respect of a sustainable agriculture and a catering manager.
In his restaurant-cocoon, Frederic has not betrayed his best years. Input, abalone, cooked with kombu algae and glazed with soy, foie gras, porcini mushrooms, raw and cooked, the sea urchins in a jelly of iodine, creamy fennel-scented wild, are intense moments. The bar line, cooked pearly, it can be enjoyed, surrounded by knives in the coco de Paimpol and condiments, shells and juice to the green, like the saint-pierre roasted, juice of edges in the verjuice, onion confit and grapes rose of Moissac, hazelnuts, and burnet. The hare a la royale, salsify au jus and fried and the partridge gray stuffed with foie gras, muscat grapes, show of the season. You may prefer the entire coast of calf normand cooked in a pressure cooker, wild mushrooms. Don’t miss the figs of Solliès cooked in the juice of raspberry, or pistachio from Iran in iced parfait topped with cassis. In the discretion of his beautiful house, Frédéric Simonin offers one of the most beautiful kitchens in the capital.
Frédéric Simonin, 25, rue Bayen, Paris XVIIe (01.45.74.74.74). Menu: 44 €, 55 € (lunch), 105 €, 145 €. Map: around 150 € (without drink). Closed Sunday and Monday.
* Frédéric Simonin. The kitchen a chef is hired, the texts of Patricia de Figueiredo, photos of Julie Limont, Editions du Chêne, 320 p., 45 €.