Good news: the sinistrose culinary has lived! Dictatorship of light, phobia déraisonnée and alarmist gluten, bursts antispécistes… All the postures of radical recovered by the industry to sell in supermarkets of products of poor quality cynically marketés. But that did not affect the appetite of the foodies nor the credit of the traditional cuisine. Quite the contrary, it turns out to be more beautiful than ever.
In France, the chicks are operating at full capacity and sauce dishes dish of the torso. It simmers, it candied, it reduces… In restaurants, this is the prom delicious blanquettes of veal, stuffed cabbage, and of burgundy, to sample the towel tied around the neck. The round baskets of cold meats and terrines, whole, which we share at the counter of the wine bars on a thick slice of country bread. The rite of sweetbreads, pulls down a high-value taste, become the new star of the michelin starred restaurants such as bistro atmosphere. The fat is no longer stain, it even became a safe haven.
Another sign of this new life-saving, the sensational come-back of the pie and its armada of pithiviers, pies and other canailleries of all kinds. Real bombinettes caloric whose pranks gouailleuses – meat-taste, game hair and feathers, foie gras – coil under a blanket of pastry dough, of course pure butter. Once neglected for their nerdy, here they are finally rehabilitated. And even being celebrated for what they are: creations humble, but with a true supplement of soul, the fruit of tens of hours of work and a singular, somewhere between the kitchen, the deli and the bakery.
Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (right), an Engraving on the cover of the weekly “cooking families” in march 1907. ŠGusman/Leemage
Everywhere, craftsmen resurrect these recipes, heritage, dishes are rustic, cozy, comforting and memory. With them, it is the legacy of Brillat-Savarin, which calls at the table. Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, a lawyer during the Revolution and then adviser to the Court of cassation, who was fond of good cheer and devoted thinker, gourmand, thanks to the publication in 1825, two months before his death, a major book, the Physiology of taste , a sort of collection of memories and reflections gastronomico-centered. Its name echoes the legend of the most spectacular pies, the Pillow of the Belle Aurore. A master piece – pillow-shaped, so – that the cook of the family would have designed in homage to Claudine Aurore Récamier, the mother of Brillat-Savarin, whom he was secretly in love.
“It is necessary that they be aligned symmetrically so that, in a portion of 250 grams, one can find all of the meats”
In Paris, the house Vérot, taken by Gilles and his son, Nicolas, that just opened a new sign in the rue de Bretagne (Third), celebrates this flat totem of the kitchen cocardière. To guard one side festive and exceptional, it is the last Saturday of September, October, November and January. Their block of fifteen pounds compiles a dozen of meats, way back of hunting: deer, pigeon, wild duck, partridge, hare but also pig, veal and foie gras. “All are marinated, individually,” explains Nicolas Vérot, and then arranged them on the pastry dough, between the layers of stuffing and truffle, generous amount. It is necessary that they be aligned symmetrically so that, in a slice de250grammes, you can find all of the meat.” In the end, it is a week of work monumentalement complex one of the main challenges remains the cooking almost alchemical of these chairs all different. In Lyon, along the Saône in the Vaise district, the two-star chef of la Mère Brazier, Mathieu Viannay, also offers in its grocery store counter, opened two years ago. It also prepares the Hat of president Adolphe Clerc, another block of Belley, the birthplace of Brillat-Savarin. Formed in a round pan, similar to, as its name indicates, a small hat, it will cut like a cake and reveals a heart that is all duck.
Respect the historical identity of these dishes, return to essence, such is the mission a quasi-memory that is assumed by those who make. But with a necessary touch of modernity. In the Seventh arrondissement of Paris, the shop of Yohan Lastre has nothing to envy to those of the bakers, the stars of the moment. The mine golden, almost glossy, its pies are the poses in the window, draped in robes of light, of scholarly mosaics of meats, fillings, vegetables and condiments. A few weeks ago, he released his first book, Pie – recipes and techniques (Ed. Marabout). This archers from nîmes key-to-any, spent by the major houses, including la Tour d’argent, is not content merely to recite the classics. His solid background as a chef allows him to see further, to test, to twister. It is an oval pie of chicken, lemon, mustard and tarragon, and hints of the mediterranean. The pig, chorizo, piquillos, and paprika, his cousin hispanisant, in the form of a big kettle drum. Or the king crab, dill and pig, imagined as a tribute to a dish tasted at Michel Troigros, in Roanne.
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the showcase of the catering to the table, starry, there is also only one step… that has crossed Karen Torosyan in his restaurant in brussels, Bozar, a macaroon in the Michelin Guide. The chief forty-something woman of Armenian descent, has pushed his passion for this repertoire up to him to dedicate an entire section of his card. A daring which it was first received a few mocking. Today, this range of pies became the signature of his house and the demonstration of its know-how. Among these creations haute couture, that it is necessary to book in advance, there is an impressive koulibiac, served for eight to twelve people. While respecting the DNA of this dish which is emblematic of the Russian cuisine, the chef delivers a personal interpretation visually sublime. And technically sharp, the cooking time of the pastry proved far superior to that of the salmon that it covers. As if protected by a duxelles of mushrooms, a layer of buckwheat and another of spinach, the cooked fish to the stew and landed translucent to heart. Karen Torosyan also does a pithiviers of duck and foie gras, while chewiness and juiciness, or a pigeon in a crust of cereals which flirts with foie gras and smoked eel. Again, the visual effect is paramount and the cutting is done in the room, in front of the customer. Effect “wow” guaranteed.
“ten years ago, few restaurants put their card because of the great distribution, selling vacuum industrial products the dough mollassonne and are full of salts nitrités”
In addition to embody the new guard of those dishes from memory, Yohan Lastre and Karen Torosyan share a common point: they have won the title of world champion of pie, respectively in 2012 and 2015. Launched around a friendly discussion between fans of good food, this idea came to fruition in 2009. And become a very serious contest, which is organized in the rules of art, with presets in Europe, Asia and the United States, controls a bailiff and a tasting by a panel of judges well advised of the best workers of France, chefs and journalists. On 3 December last, in Tain-l’hermitage in the Drôme, was held the grand finale of the annual. She has been to impose Daniel Gobet, catering to Divonne-les-Bains (Ain). His pâté in a crust of poultry of bresse, the bobbin of barbarism, sweetbreads, pistachio of Iran and lard of Colonnata, where he trained every day for three years, proved a massive hit, of course, already in his shop.
President of the jury in 2018, the head three-star Pierre Gagnaire revels in the return of the pie, “a dish that had become old-fashioned while it is an object of gluttony absolute”. Even the sound of a bell at Gilles Demange, one of the four founders of the world championship. “Ten years ago, few restaurants put in their card, decrypts it there. He had a bad image because of the great distribution, selling vacuum industrial products the dough mollassonne and are full of salts nitrités. Today, it is reborn from its ashes like a phoenix. As the French charcuterie in general, which is experiencing a new boom.” And plays the highlights of the holiday meal. At Reynon, in Lyon, the Pillow of the Beautiful Dawn will be on sale from the 28th of December. It was here, in 1937, that Claudius Reynon, best worker of France and founder of the home essential, has rediscovered the original recipe. In Vérot, it is proposed that the pie of Christmas, of family pride to be enjoyed hot, compiling Bresse chicken, truffles, foie gras and drizzled in truffle sauce. But also the pâté in a crust of poultry, pig and foie gras, with which Gilles Vérot finished vice-world champion in 2011. A delight rogue, where the taste of the three meats blend in harmony to that of the jelly and hold cooked… It will have to wait for midnight on the 25th of December, to hear the bells ring out. But for the menu for new year’s eve, the mass is already known!
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