Loewe, the venerable house of leather Spanish, would she have succumbed to the allure of gorpcore ? This neologism to the mode of contraction of gorp (in american, the name of the case the energy carried away for the trekking) and normcore (the aesthetics of banality), is a sociological phenomenon popularized in the New York Magazine , as early as 2017. The us weekly describes the tendency, observed in less than 40 years, to the arsenal of the fighter, windproof, fleece and boots to cleats, designed for strolling the hip neighborhoods of large cities. “After the sportswear and streetwear, the younger generations are reclaiming this fashion outdoor analysis Veronique Elbaz, stylist and dénicheuse trends free-lance. The functionality of these clothes, the long-standing involvement in the textile sector in the preservation of the environment, as well as its specific design resonate with current concerns, the search of comfort, well-being, and the future of the planet.”

“After the sportswear and streetwear, the younger generations are reclaiming this mode, the outdoor”

Veronique Elbaz, stylist and dénicheuse trends free-lance

At first sight, Eye/Loewe/Nature, the new masculine line that Loewe unveiled, there are a dozen of days during the London Fashion Week, takes all the codes of the locker room urban, which is redolent of the great outdoors and adventure. As it should be, parkas (from 890 euros) are made in technical fabrics and extensively drug-resistant. The pants (690 euros), jackets with behind the scenes and shorts are inspired by the standards of the utility mode, after the package military and the blue work in a factory. Backpacks in leather and canvas made in Japan (from 650 euros) multiplying the pockets to accommodate snacks, water bottle and laptop. Sweaters and fleeces are recycled cotton, sweat-shirts necessarily logo (€290). For the occasion, the brand launches the Eye , a new badge developed by the agency of graphic designers, superstars M/M Paris. All in tones of pop, but portable. What delight the man of the cities looking to escape. Category in which the artistic director of the house, Jonathan Anderson, 34 years old.

In the wild

“I imagined a character of robust love of the great outdoors and adventure,” says Irish. Any city dweller who’s spent too much time in the city will understand this feeling. A need described in the book The Old Ways: A Journey on Foot of the british naturalist Robert Macfarlane, who I was also much inspired. To the extent that we live urban lives more and more hectic, our deep desire is to return to the earth.”

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beyond a certain opportunism green, this line is a variation that is more accessible and realistic to the male wardrobe very creative (and sometimes confusing to non-insiders), created by Anderson since his arrival at Loewe in 2013. “I thought each accessory, but also each piece of clothing for it to be functional, useful to men, constantly in motion, between town and country,” insists the designer who was so inspired by his “utopian vision of the great outdoors,” but also of his own desires. And to embody this new range and especially “the test in real conditions”, he chose the young English actor Josh O’connor photographed on the wild coastline of cap de Creus, on the Costa Brava of spain.


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