Especially do not go to Marseille you make fun of the accent of marseille. On the Canebiere, the marker identity is sacred. Speak provençal, long lampooned for his side pagnolesque, is back on the Old Port, where the future is written “hail the assent”. After the great revolution of culture of a city in full transformation, including the Mucem is a kind of culmination, it seems that marseille will return to its fundamentals. Starting with a new hotel on the seafront at the beach of the Catalans, a prefiguration of the redevelopment of a typical district. Then come the new Museum of the soap and, at the J4, an amazing experience drone to visit the city otherwise. For its part, the Foundation regards de Provence celebrates its twentieth anniversary in a museum dedicated to the painting of provence. A fever of local colour to which succumb even those who are from elsewhere, such as Jean Nouvel, who has christened the new tower 135 m high, of which he is the author of “The Marseillaise”. Never the phocean City has also seemed to be close to the values that have made his legend.
• Hotel and The Seaside At the end of the Catalans beach, the hotel and The Seaside, located on the white rock his funny façade immaculate. Stéphane Aboudaram | WE ARE CONTENT(S)
It is a beautiful day for the end of the month of October as we discover the sun was golden brown, The Edges of the Sea. We are the first to enter there a few days before its opening. The hotel, including the iconic architectural firm at the opposite end of the Circle of Swimmers, the beach of the Catalans, located in the white rock his funny façade immaculate. As an osselet, from which it borrows the shape, planted above the sea, this four stars hotel is born from the meeting of two institutions mythical of old Marseille: the hotel Richelieu and the restaurant Eden Roc. Ten-nine rooms now occupy the new place, all open to the sea, a rarity. The configuration of the building, tall and narrow, in fact now in Marseilles the establishment that has on the Cornice of the most beautiful views of the Mediterranean, from the smallest room (no 16) further to the ground floor. It comes in a glass house. The sea and the undertow seems to tickle out of its foam foot bed offers a vision of the magical, almost unreal. A print that highlights the decor, unobtrusive, beds and cupboards in blonde wood, curtains, greige and ground sandstone ceramics… The evening came, he let himself be lulled by waves of emotion at the sight of the islands of Friuli cut into the shadows under a starry sky. A mediterranean restaurant with glass walls (allow around € 40) is secured to the bow of the hotel. Spectacular. Spa in the basement with lane swimming and swimming pool on the roof… it is not said that the owners of the banks of the Sea, Frédéric Biousse and Guillaume Foucher, crazy in love with the city, have botched their copy. They are not very proud of having written the first page of the renewal of the district, that will see by 2020 the completion of the renovation of the factory Giraudon, and contiguous to the Circle of swimmers, turned into luxury apartments, and the creation of a promenade and cycle tracks. While restaurants and bars are already assault the Catalans and the district of Saint-Victor’s neighbor, the watchman of the future is a source of inspiration for lovers of hotels trend.
• A museum for the soap
private Initiative of The Great Soap factory, one of the last ten boiler of Marseille, the soap has now, at two steps from the Canebière, with its museum, which was inaugurated a few weeks ago. “ We wanted to bring the factory to the factory and show the public the know-how that has its origins in the Middle Ages , ” explains Coralie Joussaud, its director. Far from being anecdotal, this large space is present in the detail that was one of the lungs to the economy of the city. It shows that at the peak of this activity, under the second Empire, more than 1,000 brands were respected on the street. Consisting of multiple spaces, one of which restores a kind of wash house, the museum tells the story of the soap of Marseille, the legacy of the Crusades with the import of the soap of Aleppo. Throughout the course, contemporary artists are involved through steps scanned where pixelated, as Jeremy Nguyen Costa, or the collective eBoy. Well done. In a last room, room for practical work. A young soap maker prepares before you a soap (it is said “saponify”). The visitor can also put the hand to the dough and bring with him the valuable product. Its manufacturing origin-based olive oil (72 %), soda and water gives this shape a little bit imperfect, which is redolent of childhood memories. It has the soap and starts with a madeleine of Proust…
1, rue Henri Fiocca, phone: 09 72 54 51 09. www.musama.fr
• A look persistent At the Musée regards de Provence, the exhibition “Utopia and metamorphoses” presents the work of photographer and visual artist Georges Rousse. Al.Galerie RX, Paris-regards de Provence.
Installed in the old Station sanitaire maritime, architecture, Fernand Pouillon, in the face of the Mucem, the Musée regards de Provence celebrates 20 years of his private collection. “ private patrons, who are passionate about Marseille is at the origin in order to enhance the painting of the Southern end of the Eighteenth century to today ” explains Adeline Granereau, at the head of the institution. The exhibition of 20 years installed on the first floor has tapped into this collection of 1 080 parts a kind of anthology of works by artists as diverse as Camoin, Caesar, Cocteau, Arman, and Dufy. The eyes meet at the discretion of the rails, such as that of Felix Ziem on orientalism, or of the brothers Verdilhan, Louis-Mathieu, and André, evidence of identity marseillaise more modern. Are still to be seen a superb suite of the ports of the Mediterranean, in the great tradition of the Enlightenment. Entitled “utopias and metamorphoses”, the exhibition (until 17 February 2019) has also guest: Georges Rousse. The photographer and visual artist came to create the ground floor of the museum a new anamorphosis (distorted image by the optical effect, the result of which is superb. At the end of the year, the artist will install on the roof, a work of lasting, silver star brushed stainless steel, with a mission to shine the art of the South during at least twenty years…
Quai de la Tourette (face to J4), tel: 04 96 17 40 40 and www.museeregardsdeprovence.com
• The city view from the sky
Marseille Drone Tower is since a few days the new tourist attraction in Marseille, to discover the sky and its heritage, through an initiative presented by its proponents as “unique in France” . A drone is broadcasting live images of the flight in a mask of virtual reality, which tops the visitor. Thanks to high definition, we takes fast to be a bird, flying over for fifteen minutes, an authorized party of the city. The take off is done in front of the Mucem (the J4, on the quay) sitting on a long chair, to the shelter of a parasol (five seats). The drone rises to 90 meters (maximum allowed) above the entrance channel to the Fort Saint-Jean, which is very much enough to have a global view of the phocean City. You can also get very close for detail of the facades, with a rare precision. And users give their orders: “More to the right, to the left, at the bottom…” which makes the viewing experience a personalized and stunning. In a final stroke of wing, a dive to dizzying heights in a speed enthusiast can shave the waves before landing on the dock. Magic.
reservation only: www.marseille-tourisme.com ; 10 €.
Come by TGV from Paris, Geneva, and the axes serving the cities. www.oui.sncf
The new hotel on The Edge of the Sea on the corniche Kennedy (no. 52) opens its doors on 15 November, but bookings are already possible. Of 160 € to 400 € per night. 52, corniche Kennedy , tel: 04 13 94 34 00, www.lesbordsdemer.com
• New tables
Whale opened a few days ago on the cours Julien (no. 56) in a former dryer at bananas. This brewery that is also a cinema of art and test (great hall) is holding a taste-screening for children, meetings with filmmakers and offers a programme of 29 films over 3 weeks. Side restoration, it is rather classical mediterranean, around 20 €.
Tel.: 04 13 25 17 17, www.labaleinemarseille.com
Another novelty at the foot of the Good Mother, the House Vauban on the boulevard of the same name (no. 109), is defined as a “canteen” music to the decor rather trend. Sage at lunch, card renewed every day from the products of the market, in the evening came the chief grants food and music during the evenings, especially on Thursday. DJ and vinyl are participating in the festive atmosphere of the location in a lively neighbourhood. Tel.: 06 76 49 45 19.
the heart of the quartier Noailles in full mutation, rue des Récolettes (no. 2) the Petit Saint-Louis , typical brasserie of Marseille, recently changed owner, chef, and service name, etc.; tapas and restaurants of brewery are now served in a deco authentically marseillaise, a true spot “after work”. Tel.: 04 91 06 54 38, http://bistrotmarseille.com
• Coup de coeur
For ArtCan Gallery, a new art gallery installed in a former printing works in the heart of the Antique district (Prefecture), rue Dragon (no. 18), specialized in urban art and graffiti. Next exhibition: Jules Dedet Granel, said The Atlas (from 21 November to 21 December).
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