The models of Ludovic de Saint Sernin are posing in the beam of a continuation of cinema. Last year, the young French designer, was awarded a grant from Andam for her dressing, gender fluid rests on a foundation male. Boys and girls, with fine fabrics associated with cuts flexible, a shared sensibility for designs that hide not necessarily the skin… This season, he unveils a version that is still further of this trend, which gum the kind of clothing. A current in the air that seem to better capture (and interpret) the new labels aimed at the youth. The day before yesterday, Alyx’s New York’s Matthew Williams has made a clear demonstration, at the end of the men’s Fashion Week fall-winter 2019-2020, in Paris. For proof yet, during this final day of shows and a variety, on Sunday, many claws together man and woman on their podium for the sake of efficiency and consistency.
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Sunday morning, Simon Porte Jacquemus presents, him, his line, Jacquemus, male-200 %, for the first time in Paris. Last June, its launch took place at the calanque of Sormiou, near Marseille. An ideal environment for fashion solar of this guy from the South, character bon vivant and without filter, which contributes greatly to the success of his young brand. At the end of his presentation at the Palais de Tokyo, he said that the year 2018 has been “very difficult,” because the business has developed considerably, but that he is “still single” at the helm of his company employing more people. The secret of Simon’s success? “The work, the love of the job” that it celebrates, through a collection under the influence of workwear. His invitation was accompanied by a loaf of bread. His boys are vareuses patch pockets in canvas rustic, baggy pants with big stitching, slip-on, padded in the manner of the shoes construction. The kids eating quickly for a breakfast with butter and jam. The image is fresh and pretty. It will be the turn of social networks. In his program, Simon Porte Jacquemus has slipped: “I will make you bread like you’ve never seen…”, an excerpt from the Wife of The boulanger (1938) by Marcel Pagnol film in which a whole village gives its opinion on the first batch of this Kind Castanier, which will roll in the flour by his beautiful wife. Our opinion about this locker room entitled “The miller” (and not “The baker” who is the cuckold!)? An excellent work of storytelling.
At Kenzo, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon are just as champions to tell stories! The top and color illustrations, the set of this winter 2019-2020 carries on the side of Cusco and Machu Picchu, in Peru, a country where the ancestors of Humberto Leon, from the province of Guangdong in China, have migrated in the Nineteenth century, before winning the West coast of the United States. The men’s collection evokes expeditions, marches in altitude although the outfits are not necessarily appropriate. Especially, in regard to the first silhouettes, citadines: suits, coats, overcoats possibly accessoirisés of straps, ties, or pockets for the coherence of the proposal. Follow the parkas and pants in patchworks of fabrics, jackets, fleece and sweaters in jacquard in the colors that are already a little sore to the eyes. This is only the beginning! These men had filched the bag to hand to their half rather than equip a backpack. We can say that they are in love because the fashion woman – it is a parade of two-time – is seriously lagging behind. Quickly, we’re not in Lima but in Rio! There are prints, feathers, rhinestones… Anything goes in this show, which turns at the carnival.
Paul Smith, too, podium common man-woman since several seasons. Unlike Kenzo, he began his career in the clothing of men. Also took charge of-t-he movement of society mainly worn by the boys – the punk-to develop muscles of its double dressing room of the next winter. There is rebellion in the air, zips and straps sewn to the legs of the pants, toques fur of color, such as ridges, bristling, of the flat screaming through the sweaters blending twists and big English coast, of the above gentleman’s-neck velvet, yellow, leopard and camouflage at base of roses. All overlaid with this eccentricity peculiar to the British that sir Smith knows how to modulate like no other.
registry Change, but not of a nation, Mark Weston print of his paw in Dunhill. He made his classes in another london house, Burberry, to the time of Christopher Bailley, his mentor in which he repeats the creed: to defend the idea throughout a parade. The comparison stops there. The claw of the Richemont group does not have the equivalent of the iconic trench coat in his closet. Its DNA is based, if not on clothing accurate, at least on an elegance, a chic, a luxury that this creative director, been in post for four seasons, line twisting well. Its silhouette is stretched out, fluid, full-bodied and male. Often in a tone-in-tone, made of fabrics which reflect the quality. Most of the clothes are closed without a button, relax the about throughout the show. In real life, these pieces are put on sale (the activity mode of this house is not major), finishes, essential will certainly be added.
There is less doubt as to the marketing of the collection Y-3. This line, which was co-signed by Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas since 2002, was the first to bring the fashion and the sport, to instill the dynamism and the technical sections of the city, and creativity in outfits for the stage. If the concept is far from being out of breath, there is a lack of frank news. The black of the japanese designer, the three stripes of the oem German back a little too often in this dressing room that is balanced very well, however, between a man and a woman.
The parity is established more as soon as a creator or a brand relies on references sportswear or utilities. Matthew Williams opens the show 1017-Alyx-9SM more known under the shortened name Alyx, with a Kaia Gerber in leather jacket with reinforced seams such as diving suits. A boy followed suit in a suit of the same spirit. Fixings and brackets to resume already in his pants at knee level. Soon, straps, buckles, materials and techniques of the printed camouflage refer to military uniforms. In the army, even in combat. And the same outfit. The parade is removed and highly acclaimed. This young american designer is already working with Kim Jones on the collections masculine of Dior. You should talk to him very soon for other adventures… on The 1st of February, in our columns, very exactly.
Boramy Viguier, the revelation
“Working with Lucas (Ossendrijver, a former creative director in the ready-to-wear for men by Lanvin, editor’s NOTE) was a great chance, tells Boramy Viguier. Some designers go too far in what they are doing: it is only there for the clothes, he likes to push the reflection. My four years spent at his side have been a great school.” A school that begins to be imitated in the luxury industry for men. Thus, Norbert Stumpfl, recently appointed at Brioni, and Guillaume Meilland, artistic director of the universe, man Salvatore Ferragamo, have also made their classes with the Dutch.
the image of this mentor, the young French-Cambodian, which presents its third collection in the sidelines of the Fashion Week, creates a mode venturing willingly off the beaten path. “I like to exploit all of the resources and, in the ready-to-wear masculine, one can quickly feel limited,” he says. Then, in my models, I prefer the dating of materials, those that are highly technical, dedicated traditionally to the man and others even more couture-like organza and silk with flowery patterns.”The look of the photo in the slide show, you can be puzzled. The silhouette seems at first sight very complex, busy, elusive to Mr. All-the-World. Yet in the face of the bearing, each piece is a remarkable accuracy. This overcoat lines and utilities, including the martingale system is perfectly integrated into the set allows you wear it on the shoulder, this sweater sock turtleneck knitted so that it locks artfully on the chin. Moreover, the buyers were not deceived: his collection spring-summer 2019, presented in June last, has caught the eye of a very sharp e-shop Matches Fashion.