The place. In the race to the stars over once a year the foodosphère, here is an address that has pulled its pin of the game in the last session. As a result, a michelin star well deserved for this table of the bourgeois who takes charge and pampers its guests with a great deal of tablecloths folded, pretty dishes, linens contemporary, bouquets of flowers abundant and service is pulled at four pins.
The plate. Chic also, but not seeking a show, the chef and co-owner Noam Gedalof has no need, having regard to the solidity of its style and the quality of its products: cream of chanterelle mushrooms with brown butter and lard of colonnata; foie gras au torchon, dates and brioche; roasted fowl, potato gnocchi, sauce, yellow wine… The punctuated paths crosses malicious: cauliflower grenobloise while gourmet veggie, tagliatelle with shellfish and other fresh pasta house vary depending on the season.
Bravo. The good advice on wine from the sommelier Etheliya Hananova, the other member of the tandem.
Damage. assistance, not very funny at lunch.
Comice. 31, avenue de Versailles (Xvi). Tel.: 01 42 15 55 70. Everyday sf dim. and lun. Menu: 46 € (déj.), 80 € (déj.), 120 €. Card: 55-100 €.
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Giraffe Giraffe (Xvi) . ADRIEN DIRAND
The place. As for a visit to a museum, you step into the City of architecture and heritage, cross the vast hall and hit upon the superb restaurant, designed by architect Joseph Dirand. Materials lavish (impressive and tasting bar, marble), very nice decor 1930’s terrace and breathtaking dialogue with the Eiffel tower: the duo Malafosse-Gourcuff (Mr. Blue) has succeeded in its coup.
The plate. bet the marine in Paris is daring, the tide is not always as fresh as one would dream. Here, seafood and fish (raw or cooked) quiver of happiness, like this roasted cod with morel mushrooms, chanterelle mushrooms and moss (37 €) or grilled octopus, aioli and summer vegetables (35 €). The cooking of large pieces served whole is a la carte (roasted, grilled, baked, fried or in a salt crust) as toppings, and sauces. Evil all full.
Bravo. outside day and night in the face of the iron lady, efficient service.
Damage. The price “boom-boom”.
Giraffe. 1, place du Trocadéro and the 11-November (Xvi). Tel.: 01 40 62 70 61. Everyday. Card: 60-90 €.
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The place. And here is how a former postal sorting centre of the district becomes, by the grace of investors informed, the new sensation of the Sixteenth century. Understand: a hotel of 59 rooms and suites with a fitness club, a swimming pool, a sauna, a steam bath, a bar, a pastry shop (desserts, Yann Bris, also served at the table), a rooftop with vegetable garden and chicken coop, feed for our purposes, a restaurant designed by Philippe Starck. The very large Starck, who seems to have together in one place its best gimmicks, injecting a little bit of Mama Shelter, My Slut, would you agree ceramics, Vallauris and pitcher’ warm, mottled here and elsewhere. Between the huge desk in front of the open kitchens, the rooms of maturation and cabinets refrigerated wine or cheese, the transparency is part of the concept.
The plate. It has been entrusted to Adam Bentalha (ex-Ritz and Royal Monceau), which plays the card of a mediterranean basin expanded: artichoke salad with anchoïade, grated pecorino romano, bottarga; cannelloni of king crab, cucumber and granny smith apple; lamb ribs marinated in zaatar… We would applaud the creativity if the portions were not so chick, if the bread (admittedly fancy) and the accompaniments were not charged extra. Unpleasant, this feeling of paying for the deco…
Bravo. An ode to the Starckmania which will delight fans.
Damage. The big moment of solitude before the addition.
Brach. 1-7, rue Jean-Richepin (Vii). Tel.: 01 44 30 10 00. Everyday. Card: 80-110 €.
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The place. cocktail Bar? Coffee area? A little bit of both, for this concept that would be at home in the heart of the Marais. On the ground floor of a building Guimard, troquet Art again picked up by the duo of trendy Franck Audoux (ex-Chateaubriand) and Youssef Li (Fragments, Circus) has been renamed in honor of Arthur Cravan, a boxer and poet in switzerland precursor of surrealism. The decor alone deserves the detour: the ceilings set under glass, zinc, marble, moldings…
The plate. granola and specialty coffee (Hexagon) in the morning was followed by a croque-madame du midi, before disembarking for the evening of small plates precious (foie gras, lobster roll, white asparagus and bresaola of tuna). The kitchen is simple, but the products are correctly sourced (olive oil Cédric Casanova, bread Square). The real star of the place? The ten cocktails sharp served all day – the only alcoholic beverage to the card, to the image of the Trocadero to the Picon, vermouth, and curaçao (12 €).
Bravo. The terrace for the beautiful days, the roast meats at lunch on the weekend.
Damage. The interior space is limited, the rates snobs.
Cravan. 17, rue Jean-de La Fontaine (Xvi). No reservations. Everyday from 8 h to 23 h. Card: 20-40 €.
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Together (Sixteenth). Capucine Granier-Deferre
The place. Lost in the middle of residential buildings, stately porte Dauphine, a whole new table cornaquée by the team of All (IXe). As there, the sharing is in the spotlight, this time around “tapas”. The decor, a mix of contemporary and casual resulted, which already seems to seduce the clientele of the neighborhood.
The plate. Carnivorous, marine or vegetarian: several small plates to share, flirts between Asia, Italy and the French countryside, showing a nice performance. To remember (served in a pretty dish), the fried dumplings butternut, ricotta, and their generous arugula-walnut pesto, salmon tartare with herbs of fragrant and pickles ginger or croquette pot-au-feu regressive tartar sauce. For dessert, if the fondant chocolate lacked relief, the roasted figs and dulce de leche were much more convincing!
Bravo. friendly service, great crowd for the bands.
Damage. tables in The background glued-tight, prices soar if one has a certain appetite.
Together. 11, rue Spontini (Xvi). Tel.: 01 45 05 14 87. Everyday sf sam. and dim. Map: 30-50 €.
The Large Glass
The place. From the summer of 2017, the tired Tokyo Eat was left up to the trio, inspired by the Quixotic Projects (Candelaria, Glass, Mary, Heavenly and Hero). Which, with the help of the architect Lina Ghotmeh, has imagined a space mixing bar in compacted soil monumental, wide canopy and wooden furniture gross. With its islets cozy and their lighting made of hundreds of droplets hanging from the high ceiling, the room passes the bet to taming the immensity. A stop is highly tolerable before or after a show (in this time the Argentine Tomas Saraceno).
The plate. Advocating the locavorisme and respect for the seasons, she plays the exotic and the creativity: falafel and salad herbs (ultra-crispy), salad fattoush with crispy vegetables (under-seasoned), bucatini with corn, cucumbers, mexican, watermelon, and fresh cheese (amazing), chicken supreme, peppers, and puree of chickpea (greedy), panna cotta with figs (nice).
Bravo. The look of the place, the drinks menu & cocktail design, the large table arty for groups.
Damage. once more, adding a bit salty.
The Large Glass. The Palais de Tokyo. 13, avenue du président-Wilson (Sixteenth). Tel.: 01 85 53 03 61. Everyday. Card: 40-50 €.
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The place. He had the energy and the vista to give back to the Zebra, became table accents lounge quite dispensable, the small boost that it deserved. Good pick with Alexandre Giesbert and Julien Ross, ex-Roco and Roca! The duo star has refocused its activities around the pizzeria worldly Daroco, to the magical rooftop Parakeet, and therefore of the good old Zebra. Which has undergone a facelift welcome and is now a figure of elegant néobrasserie, draped in marble, light wood and velvet.
The plate. It also seems to scroll, parading, but not in the emptiness, just like that, to please and tease. And behind the polished look of his compositions, the card makes sense, in embracing the season: it was the lamb pink and the caponata sicilian or the aioli hake of line this summer, it is now the cream of Paris mushrooms, or the veal sweetbread grenobloise, spinach and steamed potatoes. Beautiful classic dessert.
Bravo. The niche 15 h-19 h just as polished with nice croque-monsieur, omelette, brains of silk worker or a terrine of campaign.
Damage. The terrace a bit noisy.
Zebra. 3, place Clément-Ader (Xvi). Tel.: 01 44 14 91 91. Everyday. Card: 40-90 €.
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Full Earth. Jimmy Desrivières (ex-George White, Jules Verne, Darroze and le Meurice) returns to the side of Chaillot with a table anoblissant spices. Waiting for the Michelin.
Full Earth. 15, rue de Bassano (Xvi). Tel.: 09 81 76 76 10.Everyday sf sam. and dim.
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Radioeat. The beautiful brasserie on the first floor of the House of the Radio, with a view of the Seine and the Eiffel tower, declines about thirty dishes of the franco-world signed Eric Wapler (tartare of beef sate, sole meunière, piccata veal, etc.). Bah!
Radioeat. 116, ave du President-Kennedy (Xvi).Tel.: 01 47 20 00 29. Everyday.
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Substance. A table of author signed Stéphane Manigold, with the kitchen chef Matthias Marc (ex-sous-chef in Roots of the Meadows).
Substance. 18, rue de Chaillot (Xvi). Tel.: 01 47 20 08 90. Everyday sf sam. (déj.) and dim.
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Ducasse on the Seine. Four lounges, 120 seats, two cruises daily (afternoon and evening) and a tea time in the afternoon: this is the new jewel floating eco-friendly, purely electric propulsion of the head multiétoilé, in partnership with Citysurfing and the Caisse des dépôts.
Ducasse on the Seine. Port Debilly (Xvi). Tel.: 01 58 00 22 08. Everyday.
Masha. france Mathieu Pacaud (Apicius, Divellec, etc.) has given way to a French table orchestrated by a leader nippon (ex-Pierre Gagnaire).
Masha. 85, avenue Kléber (Xvi). Tel.: 01 42 25 98 85. Everyday sf dim. and lun.