“gold has always been appreciated in the art of watchmaking, especially from the 1930s, observes Pierre Rainero, director of image, style and heritage of Cartier. At the end of the Nineteenth century, an aesthetic that is very white has been imposed by the use of platinum. After, there was a strong urge to color. On watches like jewelry, gold like at the time for its yellow shade and sun. In addition, it is less expensive than platinum. The fact that it is less dense, allows it to work on volumes that are larger. As soon as the 1940s, the brightness of the yellow metal perfectly underlines the design full and clean lines of our watches Tank, Turtle or Bath.”
In jewellery as in watchmaking, the use of a certain type of metal, composition or alloy and rhodiages determine the color (in substance: the yellow, the pink, the white), obeys the cycles of a duration variable geometry. In the 1940s and 1950s, rose gold reigns supreme, over the next decade by the return of yellow gold. The Seventies are celebrating the marriage of the noble metal material with a said poor steel. To such an extent that, in the 1990s, the latter has supplanted the gold. “The place Vendome began to take an interest in the steel when the industry reached the crimping of diamonds, remembers a jeweler in paris. And so it is that this metal, which was very difficult to work with, became, paradoxically, a precious by dressing models sold much cheaper than those in gold…”
Nod to the fabrics silky
“the melting of the ingot to the burning of the metal, we are one of the few watchmakers to master all the steps of processing the material to make it soft enough on the skin.”
Tarnished by its ubiquity in all segments of the watch market woman, the steel has now lost its luster. “At Piaget, the time is measured in gold”, would like to remember in the general manager of the company Chabi Nouri. It must be said that the precious material covers substantially all of the watch bracelets, nearly two hundred variations – collections of this brand. In turn carved, hit, hollow, perforated, hammered, beaded… it takes the texture of the fur, or leather, that the frost or sand. “This year, it has been worked into scales on the strap and the dial of the Extremely Lady, but also engraved on the Limelight Gala, our iconic decor “Palace”, as organic as the bark of a tree and created in the 1960’s.” It was at this time that the claw switzerland decided to integrate workshops specialised in the working of the gold in order to unleash creativity, more unbridled. “The melting of the ingot to the burning of the metal, we are one of the few watchmakers to master all the steps of processing the material to make it soft enough on the skin. Thus, the cuff mesh milanese of our recent model Possession is entirely hand-woven from a single thread of gold.”
This is the same register and textile, which is available since a few seasons on the la D de Dior Satine. As an obvious nod to the fabrics silky to the home of the avenue Montaigne, the craftsmen were inspired by, here, passementeries and braids used in the workshops of haute couture to make ribbons of precious metal. Evidenced by this version in a mesh Polish, which interweaves son, chiseled and polished, or this piece a two-tone, available in next may, bringing together steel and gold textured, also moire than the reflections of a fabric. Less cold than steel, less severe than the leather, these gold-colored fasteners provide a goodly dose of glamour to the watches women’s, particularly when they are combined on a fashionable curb chain. Copies of this title, the First Chanel Watch, the Agassiz Longines, or even the irresistible Sweet Alhambra of Van Cleef & Arpels.
“Luxury, warmth and purity,”
The shimmering effect of gold also works on models to carrures more sports. In the almost one hundred new references to the Constellation Manhattan, the Omega, has become this season more slender and feminized by mother-of-pearl or diamonds, the gold is ubiquitous, it is yellow or Sedna – alloy, house, gold, copper and palladium. “When it was released in 1982, this model has emerged thanks to details such as the claws of the case, its barrel-shaped, its facets in a half-moon and its links with hinges that have immediately appealed to women for their effect valuable, says Raynald Aeschlimann, president of Omega. This year, we wanted to accentuate this feminine look. And gold, with its pristine beauty that defines the luxury, the warmth and purity, allows, among other things, to print a timeless style.”
“The material with which I work is light.”
For his part, Rolex has its own foundry to work his rha 18-carat yellow, white and Everose, proprietary alloy, which has the particularity of yellow less quickly in time. That is to say, the importance of the metal for the watchmaker. Let us not forget that it is the association’s iconic gold and steel, the famous Rolesor, which has contributed to the mythic status of the Osyter Perpetual Datejust with its bezel, winding crown and mesh center gold, its middle and its mesh of steel edges.
As to the voluptuous shows Gallop of Hermes, of which the dial in the form of generous draws on parts of tack – bridles, stirrups, harness – expensive in the saddle, she dresses the metal rose to bring forth the glow. “The material with which I work is light, says the american designer Ini Archibong. I learned how to draw shapes, aerodynamic and futuristic lines which exploit the surface and explore the effects of light.” A golden role.
ravel’s Bolero, the new tempo watchmaker Chaumet
“At Chaumet, a timepiece remains a jewel that gives the time”, warns Jean-Marc Mansvelt, director general of this company. For this new Bolero, the mark of the place Vendome book a gem shows in yellow – gold or pink – a great sketch (21.640€). Is a dial with no frills and a bracelet graph of the most successful, consisting of a mesh of 330 small rectangles faceted to catch the light. “We had not launched new watches for women since 2013, continues Jean-Marc Mansvelt. These last three or four years, we stayed discreet on the watch, the time to redefine our offer. The Dandy – male model – has been rid of all the frills to go back to the aesthetic of the original with the form coussin, box and chamfer polished, portion brushed and stripes bayadères tone-on-tone ; the watch Links for woman has been redesigned around a mother of pearl dial and a gem-setting jeweler, and more valuable, while our Class One, which celebrated its 20 years last year, had also a right to a little facelift.” With a proposed compressed – two sizes, two colors, the Bolero should be the new positioning of watchmaking. More sober and more jeweler.