Needless to say, the French cuisine is highly carnivorous. The first cookbook known, which dates back to the Middle Ages, called-t-he not The Viandier ? Even the “dishes of the poor” – with extremely rare exceptions, such as the cacasse to bare ass in the original Ardennes – were a means of adding a bottom piece of animal flesh.

It was not until the mad cow crisis, and the beginning of the century, for a leader of a three-star, Alain Passard (L’arpège), convert the Whole of Paris at all-vegetable. Or almost: after a short period of time radical, it has reintroduced poultry and fish to his creations. Some chefs exception do not need an excuse to ban red meat for their table. Christopher Coutanceau, for example, in La Rochelle, derives its legitimacy from the ocean. Others, such as Alexandre Mazzia (Marseille), who had the choice, are diet vegetables-products of the sea. Or of the lake, as Laurent Petit (le Clos des sens), the new three-star …

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