This is an avalanche, something completely harmless, that is sweeping over the men’s wardrobe to the city. Last summer, Vuarnet was given the the unveiling of a time capsule of clothing in collaboration with the trendy label Noah. A few weeks later, the French brand of glasses confirmed its diversification in the textile industry and launched a collection to full. Rossignol comes to open a shop away from the ski runs, which, however, had written his letters of nobility, boulevard des Capucines in Paris, at two steps from the Opera Garnier. In December, Fusalp launched its sixth parisian address on the rue Saint-Honoré, when Pyrenex settled down on rue de Poitou in the Marais, again quite far from the South-West and the Pyrenees, where the brand of down jackets is born 160 years ago.
Holubar. crafted paris
We can also mention the venerable claw Skidress, in vogue in the 1960s, who attempted a rebound on the tarmac with a collection-oriented lifestyle, while celebrating its DNA altitude. Millet, other house lights, that was – and continues to provide – skiers and mountain guides, dressed currently in a thirty steeds in paris with its down jackets and its assortment techniques. And what about Holubar, another name well known to regulars of the vertices (americans this time), which has been put forward, in November, by the concept-store Shopping Centre, close to the canal Saint-Martin in the Tenth arrondissement. Immortalized by Robert De Niro in the film Journey to the end of hell, his parka lighthouse is an absolute classic, that we can now bring to the city on a bike, a scooter, and even on a scooter.
luxury homes and the creators are not strangers to this wave of mountain life. In the continuity of the turn technique, borrowed from the wardrobe of the man for a few years, down jackets, parkas giant and the overlays are more than ever present in Balenciaga, Fendi, Cardigan and Walter Van Beirendonck. Their figures evoke those of the customers of a restaurant at high altitude. The new claw Templa even takes this trait of union between the mountain and the city as a concept. Founded in the fall of 2017 by a trio of belgian-australian, the label in antwerp is based on innovation. Its jackets futurists are cut in fine material waterproof, breathable or insulating, and revolve around inserts removable and deep technical details. “We want to reconnect with the functionality and fashion with innovative parts also relevant on the tracks in an urban park in the rain,” says Anati Rakocz, co-founder of the claw, and a former sales director at Ann Demeulemeester and Haider Ackermann.
Fusalp. Fusalp Reinterpretation of luxury pieces alpine
This rapprochement between the two worlds is the key to the success of The North Face, Patagonia, and, most importantly, for a longer time, Moncler, which has, since 2003, delivers a reinterpretation of luxury pieces alpine iconic, such as the famous jackets. The bet, dare, is widely successful, as the house has almost doubled its turnover in four years. And approximately 1.2 billion euros in the year 2017. A business that snowballed thanks to collections that go beyond today’s largely the world of the “skiwear”, without being in rupture with the heritage of the brand.
In the history of fashion, this is not the first time that parts come of the tracks arrive in town. In the 1990s, we could see young people dressed in thick jackets and parkas XXL garish colours on the East coast of the United States. The movement hip-hop has in effect hijacked the cloakroom for winter sports, such as water sports, activities in the bourgeois if it is. Currently, the brand american Woolrich dares a glance at this fascinating clash of cultures by sponsoring the legend Lauryn Hill as a muse. A decade earlier, near us, to Milan in Italy, paninaro, these young middle-class who réappropriaient the range classic of their parents, had already devoted some clothes flagship of the peaks, including jackets Moncler.
“masculinity is changing, and the locker room with” Vuarnet. Vuarnet Templa. Templa
what does this incursion of the mountain city is the name? Passionate about outdoor, Alberto Raego, who work for the revival of Holubar, advance a part of the answer: “people feel confident when they wear techniques proven by professionals. They know that the promise will be kept”, decrypts the Alps, which has already put back on the rails, at the dawn of the 2000s, Refrigiwear and clothing insulation adopted by the butchers in new york working in the fridges of Meatpacking, forty years earlier.
“There’s an infatuation with the aesthetic codes of these clothes. But they are also very practical and it is far from being a detail!” asks Nicolas Ivars, founder of the shop pointed to The Next Door in Avignon, which opened in mid-January, a concept store male rue Beaurepaire, Paris. “I often take the train and I see men wear a fleece without sleeves and a parka over a suit instead of a coat in wool cloth. Without being classical, it is coherent,” he continued.
That it be carried out without frills (on the down jackets retro Holubar) or more marked (on certain jackets from Rossignol, including the zip magnet allows you to close them with one hand if the other is taken by a handlebar of a bike or a phone), the feature is more present in the dressing room. “We consume more intelligently, and if a garment has several functions, it is better,” says Anati Rakocz. This sensitivity of gentlemen for the tech and the comfort is synonymous with a search for meaning, a desire to be closer to nature. Alessandro Locatelli, the president-director-general of the textile industry of Nightingale, edge: “today, a man cool takes the subway, moves by bicycle or electric car, it is healthy, sporty, don’t smoke… masculinity is changing, and the locker room with.”