“The price of the margherita at Pizzeria Popolare just go from 5 to 9 bullets.” The information relayed by the site of the Fooding Tuesday, 20 November, will make many disappointed. And for good reason, the pizza group, Big Mamma had just launched, in march 2017, around the margherita billed as Naples ‘ only 5€.

A proposal so unique in the capital – at least with such a quality in the preparation of the dough neapolitan, and in the trim (mozza fior di latte, tomatoes San Marzano and basil) -, that Big Mamma was widely touted to be able to offer, notably thanks to economies of scale on the importation of live producers of the Boot. A year and a half after, what is it that justifies these 80% increase, when inflation fluctuates between 1% and 2%?

“Don’t lower the requirement on the products”

Through their press officer that we have contacted, this price boom – that is installed in stealth since the beginning of November – is justified by the maintenance of the quality of the cuisine served. Understand that the margherita for 5€ – and its little sister, the marinara for 4€, excluded also from the map – was not sufficiently profitable. In the other restaurants in the group – except Felicità, that the invoice 8€ – the same margherita costs 12€ but represents only 15% of orders, compared to 50% in Popolare. “As they have never wanted to drop the requirement that they have on the products, they preferred to adjust the price,” she explains.

The duo of Victor Lugger and Tigrane Seydoux, who has seven restaurants, ultra-lookés in Paris – including the massive Felicità to Station F, to be inaugurated this summer -was exported back to Lille with The Bellezza, and is working on opening in London. All of the trattorias Big Mamma, who refuses to accept bookings in order to maximize its revenue, continues to fill up with endless queues every day to get a table. Unless the public does finally annoy of this search for profitability at any price?


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