“Paris is exciting! This edition is promising!” says Bruce Pask, the director of the male universe of Bergdorf Goodman however, in customary Fashion Weeks, on Tuesday evening, the first day of parades in the capital. 56 shows (including 10 extra compared to the previous edition), and 26 submissions, 15 nationalities are in the program until Sunday night, that once again (and even more than ever) in Paris, the great capital of fashion man. “Without denying the importance of the london scene and the salon of the Pitti Uomo in Florence, all buyers, journalists must be present here,” says the New Yorker. In the light of the busy schedule, to be, some designers seek to distinguish themselves as the young American Spencer Phipps of the label of eco-Phipps, who was walking, on Tuesday, the models in cargo pants, sweat shirts and parkas expedition between the games arcades of the Head in the Clouds. Other stretch the day until very late – Han Kjobenhavn, Copenhagen, planted in the decoration of its urban fashion postapocalyptique, to 21 hours in a building of the Paris Event Center, porte de la Villette.
Abloh’s label Off-White – who, as a good comrade, was sitting in the front row at Preston – can also boast of dressing up the youth
Heron Preston is one of those new ones, came in search of glory in the City of Light. Clique Kanye West and Virgil Abloh, the American 34-year-old invests the upper gallery of the Palais de Tokyo transformed, for the occasion, in the hall of airport with electric security gates, metal detectors and cctv footage in a loop. This decoration is a reference to the inspiration of his collection: the Instagram of the Transportation Security Administration. Is an inventory wacky finds (snake, lobster, chainsaw, firearms, etc) of the agents of control terminals in the United States which inspired him to a locker room mixed with a strong connotation of utility. Waterproof Nylon parachute fashion coat lab, wide legged pants orange-D. D. E and overcoats electric blue boots UGG reviewed and corrected by shoes construction… A uniform that is meant to a generation, and made the word “style” written in cyrillic.
Abloh’s label Off-White – who, as a good comrade, was sitting in the front row at Preston – can also boast of dressing up the youth. Yesterday, however, the guru of the millennials explores a silhouette more formal, one of the young boys in blazers, overcoat XXL, ties and white shirts strung on loose jeans tightened at the waist by a cord. Of course, they are most often the sneakers. What makes the grammar of the designer (also the artistic director of the collections men’s Louis Vuitton) remains: the symbols and logos galore, the labels overt, tags to spray paint on the jackets and hoodies. He does not forget the necessary pinch of storytelling to the u.s. through cowboy, football helmets US and lumberjack shirts.
age 40 years love also the streetwear sleek French collective Studies, of its jackets worker and cargo pants in cotton rigid, its surchemises and her hats are embroidered with the name of the brand, its meshes enlarged, and its blue king shrill insiders call the “blue Studies”. These will not be disappointed. Finding its origin in the New York of Keith Haring, whose graffiti line combination of mechanical, jeans and scarves, this collection is the epitome of what has made the success of the mark of Jeremiah Égry, Aurélien Arbet and José Lami since 2012: a fashion cool and authentic.
overlays, there is also the matter in Takashimuroshita The Soloist. The Japanese, once behind the label Number Nine, is back in the capital with a walk-in closet while poetry
“Paris is an incredible scene, confirms Hed Mayner. This is the best place to scroll through today. The young creation is very strong. The Federation of couture and fashion we opened the doors.” In a classroom of the school of applied arts Duperré, the young Israeli (a graduate of the French Institute of the fode) presents its fourth collection, and it is one of his most mature. From timeless dressing male (trench coats, overcoat, down jacket, jeans, trousers, tongs and shirts) reinterpreted and layered it assembles delicate lasagna: the precision of each layer, the perfection of the finishes, just the right amount of colors are remarkable.
overlays, there is also the matter in Takashimuroshita The Soloist. The Japanese, once behind the label Number Nine, is back in the capital with a walk-in closet all in poetry. Following a clever building game, it picks up the panoply of the military, the harness of the aviator and the polar mountain climbers. He drapes the survival blankets around the body, covers zips and messages of peace the driver combinations.
Paris is a stepping stone. For most young people, but especially for the more adventurous. JW Anderson seems to want to get out of his comfort zone and visit other areas. First, the Irish (also the artistic director of the house Loewe) from the catwalks of london for those of Paname. Then, it sends it on a path of black sand, under huge balloons in the shape of a globe, boys like new explorers. Of hiking boots in foal and high socks zebra or printed leopard, warm up shorts, baggy thanks to behind-the-scenes. Shirts grand-father beyond pull-overs cocoon and bombers unstructured, heated shoulders, sheep… On the podium, some of the looks look like exquisite corpses street – the fashion designer has lost nothing of its effects of style and eccentricity of the british. Soon, on the healthy, each part taken separately is ultradésirable and should without a doubt find its audience. Even among the more conformist.