The men’s Fashion Week January in Paris is the submerged part of an unimaginable iceberg. An important economic sector, an industry with wide ramifications for the earth, a multitude of trades and a variety of related, near or far, to the mode. This international event, whose images are around the world, attracted others. In the halls of the Porte de Versailles, Pavillon Vendôme, the Hotel of Evreux, at the Palais Brongniart, in a multitude of galleries and apartments of the Marshes transformed into show-rooms, a plethora of brands are salon to show their collections of ready-to-wear and accessories to buyers from all countries.
In parallel, the Maison & Objet at the Parc des expositions de Paris Nord Villepinte, a summit in itself. And when all of these professionals are not at a presentation to the other, they sniff the air of Paris, visit new places, looking for young brands, crackle and spend… All of this, of course, in normal times. Saturday, because of the protests of the “yellow vests”, the French capital was impassable in some areas. The leaders of the houses, and the Federation of haute couture and fashion had taken the lead in developing the schedule of parades, but the impact is enormous, invaluable and durable also for this profession.
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It should, however, be more to initiate the power of Olivier Rousteing at Balmain. Adjourned for a few hours, the show is held at the Tennis Club of Paris, transformed into a huge dance floor dressed in a floor mirror. The minimum necessary to reveal 98 silhouettes in black and white (including a dozen integrating the faded denim). A record, not so much in number – there were more at the previous show in the salons of the ministry of foreign Affairs – at the level of style, of extreme diversity, while keeping the more than ever. The performance starts in the evening, dressed in a tuxedo unstructured playing on the positive and negative. And then they come to the city, the day, quickdraws coolest without pay in excess streetwear, tweed in shades degraded, leather and jeans with the seams and hems are painted in contrast to freehand. On hoodies and bags, the thirty-year print in capital letters of “Don’t put your blame on me”, “I hope (s)he loves the boys,” “You only know my name, not my story”, messages that are not thrown to the wind. Olivier Rousteing is highly followed on social networks. On the occasion of the fashion show, Balmain launched his own app in partnership with Apple, a forum where the verve artistic director of French should break records.
For the first time, Loewe presents the men’s collection by Jonathan Anderson in the form of parade
In Cardigan, Chitose Abe has always wanted to fight with the conventions of dress. Saturday morning, the moon atmosphere that surrounds its presentation – advanced 9 hours to not to suffer any public gatherings while the area around the Grand Palais, close to the Elysée palace, are looped to the traffic since the dawn, has no link with the spirit, the less tossed to and fro, from his collection. The shock of colors and patterns are restricted while careful not to reveal two similar looks. Individuality is the motto of the season, which covers the fall and winter with parts for all the time and all the cold, the rain gear in tissue layers of thick jackets and parkas-encrusted fur or jacquard which renews the genre.
For the first time, Loewe presents the men’s collection by Jonathan Anderson in the form of a parade. A high-speed transition in the mode man for the claw of madrid of the LVMH group, whose creative director irish fulfills the upper-hand. Normal, he launched his personal brand from this dressing, in 2008 on the catwalks of London, with a boldness which has quickly made his name. About ten years later, this fantasy extravaganza is back in Paris. At the Unesco house, the space is decorated with a monumental sculpture of the German Franz Erhard Walther. It incorporates fragments of clothing, such as stencils for cutting used by tailors. The proposal also plays on this passage of forms-flat of the clothes in volume, with sweaters, the edges not sewn, shirts without buttons, long cuffs, the shoes extend into chaps worn not zipped to the inside of the leg. At each passage, a variety of ideas. Creativity crazy is refreshing. Parade also shirts and jackets very sober and laptops with a single large pocket in contrasting leather, as well as the bags Puzzle and Gate in formats and hides more than perfect.
With the reservations Perret dedicated to antique furniture (seats, chairs) Furniture national framework, the collection Hermes would have seemed crushed
The imagination of Thom Browne is just as impressive. And don’t talk much about his staging, which régaleraient a shrink! The set of the parade, lined with plastic bubble on the way to a padded cell prompted perhaps not too much to dig in this side? The show begins with eight boys dressed in chef’s crafted in this same material. Then, dummies compilations of clothing, sometimes in a skirt or dress right, or in a suit and coat perfectly trimmed, are presented. Since last summer, the american designer has become part of the Italian group Zegna, the world leader in ready-to-wear for men. In the end, the 38 silhouettes appear reproduced in miniature size at the center of the podium… In summary, dolls of the stronger sex.
With the reservations Perret dedicated to antique furniture (seats, chairs) Furniture national framework, the collection of Hermès could seem crushed. But it is of exceptional beauty, based on solid foundations – it is the case to say! – and an expert hand. The next winter, Véronique Nichanian questions, she shakes up his lines without losing sight of this simple but sophisticated signing the success home. From the first passages, a three-quarters this of patch pockets coupled with other an offset of a few millimeters in contrasting leather. Boots with cut-outs punched are reinforced by a durable rubber nuanced. Tucks in metallic highlight a few hems. Geometric shapes are quilted in small on shirts, knitted knit of cashmere sweaters, which are embedded in giant format in jackets in lamb. These angular figures are softened by more cuts rondes, matelassages light leather to the sensual touches. The sheep returned warms the collar of the bomber, and animating the lead of the canadian deer. The all declined in an ocean of blue, with accents of burnt orange, green, absinthe, saffron yellow, or red H. Subtly.
The richness of Dior by Kim Jones
“My first show was a statement of intent. The second specifies and develops the point: to talk about what that was this house and what it will become,” says Kim Jones, before its long-awaited show of Dior, following a trial run a highly acclaimed as the new artistic director of the universe man, in June 2018. A few hours later, the first model that comes forward – the models don’t work, they are posing on a treadmill through the entire room – is a summary of this exercise between the past and the future. He is dressed in a dark suit reminiscent of the great 2000 years of Dior Homme under the direction of Hedi Slimane. This jacket is buckled a breastplate depicting a head of a fawn, designed for the occasion by the American Raymond Pettibon, hand-embroidered by no less than 15 artisans from the different, for some $ a thousand and six hundred hours of work. It highlights know-how sewing preserved and, moreover, discusses the elective affinities of the founder of the claw with the artists, who had been before gallery to reveal himself in the fashion world in 1947.
there is also the leopard print which renvoieci and there, to Monsieur Dior. As well as the bag Saddle to the era of John Galliano, a clutch and now reinterpreted to man, swollen with cotton wool and scope in the holster. And these collars scarves that consist of a draped, asymmetrical, extending to the keel of a jacket and coats, at the time of Raf Simons on fashion woman… The 49 passages have elegance, respect the legacy, without, however, turning the patchwork of tributes. Kim Jones draws a clear line through this collection. At least, he knows where he is going in multiplying options. It is addressed to several men of different ages, nationalities and sensibilities cosmopolitan with a dressing that is particularly rich. It does also not insensitive to women. In the wake of the presentation, Dior released images of the actress Christina Ricci, singer Lily Allen, and models Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss and Natalia Vodianova wearing models already in the season in question, sitting in the first row.
the art of being a constant
Many are (still) the men do not swear by the suits to a tailor specific or jeans on a single label ad vitam aeternam because they know that these parts go perfectly. Thus, Lemaire has its devotees, insiders loving the clothes timeless Sarah-Linh Tran and Christophe Lemaire. Yet, something has changed on the next winter. “I felt like a one-shoulder jacket over a suit, collar, more graphics, clothes on the net…,” says the designer. The look of a dandy, in short? “Yes, but austere, not precious. The mere dandyism is a way to stand up straight, a kind of resistance, at this specific time, when you are in search of bail streetwear at any price.” The duo has shortened the pants to fold marked, cut of the blazers in a washed silk pink powder rather than in a drapery classic, contrasting the refinement of the set with large overcoat wool dry.
The house Jil Sander, from the time of the founding, were also fans of his dressing room minimalist. After his departure, several artistic directors have succeeded one another… With more or less success. Since 2017, Lucy and Luke Meier start doing something, presenting for the first time in Paris. Without a doubt, their collection is one of the most relevant, near-classics of departure: pullovers collar round mesh mottled, macs are flawless and full three buttons with clean lines in a range of hues in grey. An intense red, and touches of blue cerulean settle. The silhouette is stretched, shirts and sweaters, elongated, the layers of clothing overlap as fond of the time. Another sign of the times and a mix of genres that would not have denied Ms. Sander, a silk veil made up of flat areas of color wakes up the black suits of the last passages.
kindness is the theme of the collection autumn-winter 2019-2020 Pharmacy General. A word, elected word of the year 2018 in France that befits each of the collections of Pierre Mahéo since 2012
kindness is the theme of the collection autumn-winter 2019-2020 Pharmacy General. A word, elected word of the year 2018 in France that befits each of the collections of Pierre Mahéo since 2012. Thanks to its mode of altruism, the stylist has built a loyal customer base. A humanity that can be found in the next winter in “the costume in all its forms, a necessary element of which I never get tired”, he wrote in his director’s note, written in the first person as a letter to friends. Perfect illustrations: jackets with patch pockets, unstructured for a more comfortable and slipped on shirts without a collar and sweaters in mohair bouloché, the blazers rights “not so classic” or crossed “1-1/2” (to be exact) to wear open. Also of the novelties of the season, as the jackets aviator Nylon khaki or suede beige but especially the first pair of sneakers of the brand, which from the outset have something for everyone.
aficionados of a certain classicism should also find their account with Cerruti 1881. Jason Basmadjian imagine the good pants city fire floor, the pair of boots going hand-in-hand, the parka combines the right dose of technique and elegance, the sweater, the patchwork combining creativity and comfort. In office since 2015, without necessarily display a bias strong, the U.s. should find its customer.
Can we talk about consistency for a young claw, which is only two years old? Still, Dylan Lurr, the creator of Namacheko, already shows a certain stubbornness to rework each season to his mastery of tailoring. Once again, he unveils a series of costumes remarkably executed, including the double breasted jackets with short leg and defined waist are gorgeous. The stylist spotted by the concept store The Broken Arm also shows a talent for the mesh. Special Mention for the sweaters in mohair multicolor patterns psychedelic.
The natural evolution of Clothing
The collective Clothing taken by Demna Gvasalia (also the artistic director of Balenciaga) has in the past marched under the strobes of a gay club, under the device, on the shelves of Galleries Lafayette and Centre Georges Pompidou. Thursday night, he had chosen the Great Gallery of evolution, Muséum national d’histoire naturelle. On the tape-sit is a very large city in overheating (horns, sirèneset noise of automobiles), a horde of boys and girls huddled up in down jackets shell, the face hidden behind a balaclava, a hood or a collar pull up on the nose, advancing one not in a hurry.
The mark which had réenchanté the logo and the sweatshirt promotional, there is little, is used today to deliver messages, often political, sometimes tongue-in-cheek. Sign of anarchists painted upside-down, crest Interpol, diversion of the first campaign poster of Barack Obama or, on a sweat, this sentence “It’s my birthday and the only thing I got is a hoodie out of the price of the home Clothes”. Many have reprochéau label to divert the aesthetic of the working classes to edit of luxury goods to the destination of a customer-the so-called millennials) who had, perhaps, not the means. Regardless, the group pushes the nail. In the middle of the 7000 animal species (including the museum’s website states that”they don’t speak but say everything”), it gives to see the allegory of a youth anxious at the time of the rise of populism, of the climate emergency and the terrorist threat, and his vision of the contemporary mutations.