No new triple-michelin-starred the capital city this year. But with 22 tables rewarded (2 two-star, 20 one star), the Île-de-France appears as the region with the highest award-winning year 2019 of the Michelin guide, presented this Monday, January 21, salle Gaveau. Here are the main lessons learnt from this 110 edition in Paris.
• The three-star pass 9. The very exclusive club of restaurants triple-starred (27 in France) loses a member in the capital from 10 to 9 tables. Pascal Barbot (Astrance, Sixteenth), is thus demoted to two macarons.
• 2 new two-star. On the five new two-star hex, two are in Paris. Stéphanie Le Quellec, 36-year-old head of The Scene to the Prince of Wales (Eighth) since 2013. Prior to joining the palace, this “needy”, the mother of three children, was formed at the George V with Philippe Legendre and Philippe Jourdin, took the head of the kitchen of the hotel Four Seasons Terre Blanche (83) and won the season 2 of the contest Top Chef . At The Scene, it magnifies the mediterranean cuisine in a chic and contemporary: asparagus purple Anjou, king prawn from Palamo cooked on a puck of pink salt, veal sweetbread with dates, Simmenthal ripened with black truffle…
David Toutain (Vii), 37 years old, was trained by the great Alain Passard, Pierre Gagnaire, Bernard Pacaud and Marc Veyrat. Passed by The Agapé Substance, he gets home rue Surcouf in the past five years, in a restaurant on two floors with the look nordic and bright. Its menus to the blind with the headings of flowers reveal a very personal universe, marked by the plant, the daring combinations, and the sets of texture: Brussels sprouts caramelized-Douglas pine, crisp oyster-raspberry-shallot, eel-black sesame-green apple…
” READ ALSO – The full list of michelin-starred restaurants in the Michelin guide to Paris
Julia Sedefdjian and his team at Baieta (Ve). Baieta
• 4 women stellate. Very late on the parity, the red Guide has attempted to correct the shot with his promotion 2019, sacre eleven women (4 couples). Four are located in the Île-de-France: in addition to Stéphanie Le Quellec, the three heads will leave with a badge. Naoëlle Of Hainaut which, according to the guide, “imagine plates of very high level” to The Gold Q idea (Cergy-Pontoise, 95). Julia Sedefdjian, after The Fables of la Fontaine, repeats the feat of being the youngest of this vintage with its table Baieta (Ve), who pays homage to its origins nissart, by revisiting the specialities of the South way gastro, to the image of his bouillabaieta. Finally, Virtus (Xii) and Accents (IIe) offer kitchens, four hands, with two heads japanese: Chiho Kansaki with Marcelo di Giacomo and Ayuni Sugiyama (director and head pastry chef) with Roman Mahi.
• The foreign leaders to honor. As was his habit since a few years, the red Guide has awarded a significant number of toques japanese, that use their techniques and ingredients to magnify the French cuisine. And in Paris: Accents (Ii), ERH (Second), Sola (Ve), Yoshinori (Life), Shelter (Xe), Autumn (XIe), Virtus (Xii) and Pilgrim (Xv). But also The Abyss (Eighth), the sushi bar luxury of Yannick Alléno. The capital also sees other nationalities recognized: the Italian Simone Tondo at the Roots, IIe), brazilian (Raphael Rego in Oka, Ve) and mexico (Indra Carrillo to La Condesa, Ninth).
• Drive youth. Other, will the Michelin at the national level, which illustrates in Paris, the reward of the young chief, who are also entrepreneurs. In addition to Julia Sedefdjian 23-year-old Guillaume Sanchez, the head tattooed and iconoclastic insight in Top Chef , born in 1990, gets 1 star for NESO (IXe), opened in the spring of last year, when it declines to a kitchen as unique as tasty. Indra Carillo de La Condesa (IXe) is a 30-year-old Simone Tondo of Roots (IIe) just 31.
• The Guide is décoince. Is to rejuvenate its image or under the influence of the guide Fooding that it has acquired a year and a half, it is still the case that the Michelin now seems to be open tables more casual, frequented by a trendy clientele. After the Chateaubriand to the very rock ‘ n roll Inaki Aizpitarte last year, will receive a star this year: Frenchie (IIe) by Greg Marchand, Shelter (Xe) of Katsuaki Okiyama, Roots (IIe) Simone Tondo or Tomy & Co of Tomy Gousset (Vii).
Poule au Pot by Jean-François Piège (Ier). Hervé Goluza
• Two heads stars. A defect in the third macaron hoped for its Great Restaurant, Jean-François Piège took a star for The Chicken in every Pot (I), the institution of the Halls that it has resumed this summer, and where he celebrates the cuisine bourgeois (au gratin with onions, frog legs, whiting fried Colbert, hachis parmentier, etc.). Yannick Alléno sees him awarded a star for The Abyss (Eighth), installed on the ground floor of the Pavillon Ledoyen.
• 2 tables in the suburbs. Sign of a Great Paris in the process of “gastronomisation”, two restaurants get their first star. Naoëlle Of Hainaut to The Gold Q idea (Cergy-Pontoise, 95) and Jacky Ribault at The Bear (Vincennes, 94). The latter, already starred for That feather on the moon (Xi), the sign of an amazing address where nature is in honour, and with a menu improvised each day depending on arrivals.
• 13 losers. in Addition to Astrance (the Sixteenth), demoted from 3 to 2 buttons, the Carré des Feuillants Alain Dutournier (Ier) and the Taillevent David Bizet (Viii) pass from 2 to 1 star. Stories, and France (1 and 2 stars, Sixteenth), as Mathieu Pacaud has closed, come out of the guide. As the following tables, which lose their star: The Restaurant (Life), Gaya (Vii), Madder (Vii), Jules Verne (Vii), 39 V (Viii), Au Trou Gascon (Xii), Saint James (Xvi), and The Range of the Spring (Seventeenth).
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