“Me, I said weird? As it is strange.” The replica Louis Jouvet ( Funny drama , 1937) sometimes comes to mind in the face of the fashion shows the male. Since many years, the creators of Paris and elsewhere think of the ready-to-wear for men, they do not tire of hijack of materials, to create looks that are new and, in the end, to surprise again and again. The first to have invested the catwalks, the French clothing deconstructed were the Japanese. Followed by the Belgians and the British. The Americans arrived later, reinterpreting the ways of the street in their collections. Today, there are no boundaries in style. Trends are interfering, designers opposites mix together, sign of the collaborations. The concept is in vogue and leads to best-sellers when these editions are unexpected, confusing, not to say… weird.
The shapes, the textures, the colours are never classics at Acne Studios. At least on the podium. The creative director Jonny Johansson designs its parade as a laboratory of ideas
“It is not the same a stay in Japan”, said last November, Pierpaolo Piccioli, at the end of the parade prefall 2019 Valentino in Tokyo. Wednesday evening, under a canopy of the Grand Palais, its winter 2019-2020, in addition to his previous opus and rid yourself of references, sportswear, focused on the cut, the fit, the details, which sign a beautiful garment. The first black silhouettes, unstructured and fluid evoke the heyday of fashion designers of japanese. The printout of an unknown planet, flocked to the length of the hem on jackets and coats, remember that it is also the land of science fiction. The year 2099 is on the back of a jacket. In the aftermath, the artistic director roman co-wrote a few pieces with his colleague the japanese Jun Takahashi of label Undercover (read below), which scrolls two hours later. Sweaters displaying a portrait of Beethoven and the initials of the two brands mixed, parkas, anoraks and overcoats in cashmere, printed on a spaceship challenge and sign-up to the season. F. M-B.
The shapes, the textures, the colors that are never conventional in Acne Studios . At least on the podium. The creative director Jonny Johansson designs its parade as a laboratory of ideas. From one collection to the other, the searches are more or less advanced. The next winter focuses on textures, modern look plastic, mesh and leather, iridescent pants with one of the two legs in large folds swung or folded. These parts are linked to each other and from head to foot fry the excess. Individually (and, incidentally, in a color other than pink Malabar or orange on steroids!), most look great. F. M-B.
Luke Meier is sharing its references in the note of intent of its brand OAMC:the music scene of Seattle in the early 1990s up to the exhibition Matthew Barney at the Guggenheim Museum
volume remarkable, it is also a question in Raf Simons . The belgian designer (who has been thanked by the brand Calvin Klein mid-December), book a personal proposal strong. It was also the case of collections that have coincided with other periods of break in his career. As after his split with Dior at the end of 2015, which had taken place in the month of June following, a collaboration collector with the Foundation RobertMapplethorpe (spring-summer 2017). On Wednesday evening, in the salons of The Shangri-la hotel, in front of an audience placed in the way of a show of haute couture, a line of great coats, trench coats, and car coats also sober and sublime that huge parade as a conclusion. Pictures of actress Laura Dern, in Blue Velvet (1986), David Lynch, are printed here and there on the sweat-shirts or jackets -the talented Mr. Simons having taken the crease of date each season using image transfers of her mood board. A continuum of creative of more sustained in the registry masculine. F. M-B.
Luke Meier is sharing its references in the note of intent of its trademark OAMC : the music scene of Seattle and Vancouver at the beginning of the 1990s up to the exhibition Matthew Barney at the Guggenheim Museum of New York, by way of a quote from Kurt Cobain: “The duty of youth is to challenge corruption” (“the duty of youth is to fight against corruption”). The progress imaginary is not explained necessarily. As a result, here, a dressing room mature, more personal than in the past, characterized by flowing lines, layers of woolens full and, sometimes, drawings, naive artist Daniel Johnston, and passes, under-pull latex as if the models had to be hiding underneath an outfit a lot more ambiguous. F. M-B.
The fashion show Rick Owens begins in the dark. A silhouette that is less experimental than the seasons past takes shape
the style of the collection Issey Miyake Men has nothing to do with that of Raf Simons, but it is difficult not to draw a parallel. Since its creation fifty years ago, in 2019, this japanese house has always sought to combine creativity and technical skills. The noise of the looms are scattered throughout the soundtrack, while the models of the fashion designer Yusuke Takahashi prove to be particularly original and mastered. Scratch placed the colours in the antique fade gradient, or patterned brushstrokes are reproduced in the jacquard, while maintaining an appearance of spontaneous and random. F. M-B.
The parade Rick Owens starts in the dark. A silhouette that is less experimental than the seasons past draws. The print of clothes, more formal is confirmed in the light, the vials are snapped from narrow shoulders to the top of the rounded sleeves to jackets, jackets satin quilted and coats with pockets grafted leather as fragments of leather goods. The American residing in Paris, has collaborated with his colleague Larry Legaspi, known in the United States in the 1970s. At a time when the artistic directors draw patterns in the past without mentioning their authors, Owens finalizes co-editing a book (October 2019), which will issue the work of his brother in the light. F. M-B.
Hip-hop and Rising Sun
Yesterday, late in the night, the tireless Virgil Abloh and Jun Takahashi, creator of Undercover, met behind the decks of the Concrete, the barge moored near the quai de la Rapée, the high place of the outputs parisiennes. In addition to a passion for music, the American, Illinois, and the Japanese native to the region of Kanto share the same global approach to fashion, especially streetwear, trend, born in the black neighborhoods of the United States, but widely circulated in the land of the Rising Sun. To such a point that today the Japanese are excellent in this locker room infused hip-hop and work clothes, arousing the admiration in the country of Uncle Sam. Evidenced by the presence of many Americans in jean baggy and hoodies to each fashion show of a claw asian. V. G.
An audience of fans of rap US, helps to show Undercover . On the stage of the Salle Wagram, a horde of bad boys in tracksuits fleece, parkas, macs and down jackets silk-screened images of clockwork Orange (1971), walk to the sound of the soundtrack to the film of Stanley Kubrick. There is also a little bit of Italy in the Seventeenth century (the invitation includes an extract of the Supper at Emmaus by Caravaggio, circa 1601) in these milords of modern times to bowler hats to feather and sneakers running. The whole gives a new vision of this street fashion which young people are crazy about it. V. G.
The creator of Facetasm Hiromichi Ochiai shakes the iconography of the united states as a few others. For the next winter, he juxtaposes the myth of the witches of Salem, the universe of the Hells Angels and the grunge aesthetic with a sensitivity in the cup and the deconstruction of any japanese. More concentrated than the previous seasons (in spite of the 108 passages), his collection for man and woman is the image of the not clocked of its models under the nave of the church Saint-Merri: energetic. V. G.
Other Japanese Fumito Ganryu , designer past by the school As Boys, scrolls for the first time by his name in Paris. Of tracksuits XXL draping, fashion kimonos, duffle coats are oversized, such as shells, down jackets mind sleeping bags, sweaters of students knotted around the neck… again, the streetwear is in the spotlight while never literal. If his style is said, his remarks would have deserved to be more concise. V. G.
The spirit tailoring is at the heart of the brand Sulvam , founded in 2014. The Japanese Teppei Fujita, selected for the Prix LVMH 2017, dresses dandies ethereal costumes three-piece printed patterned pointillists, embroidered beads on their jackets, velvet, and rhinestones on his tie. Sometimes, a panty with overstitching replaces his pants. This gentleman strange walking around in socks faux fur (without shoes), the face covered with a veil of red lace. V. G.
Louis Vuitton by Virgil Abloh, a symbol
A white-glove strassé as an invitation and the replica of a boutde sidewalk of the Lower East Side as in the clip Black or White (1991), poor area of Manhattan including Michael Jackson, the first popstar afro-american of international fame, was not born but which identified all the kids that are disadvantaged. Against all odds, it is finalementun subtle tribute to Virgil Abloh makes the King of Pop with his second menswear show Louis Vuitton : 65 looks that are held at a distance of quickdraws of the artist. The silhouettes rather urban and formal in flannel from head to feet (fine leather goods, pouches, wallets and bags including travel), adopted at the option of the passages, the volumes and proportions of streetwear. A collection draping in the star-spangled banner, as in berne, all grayed out, before resuming the colours of the flags of all the nationalities present at the studio of the malletier. A message of hope, of openness and diversity at a time when one wants to restore the borders. F. M.-B.