You know, often without knowing it, they are called “own brands” in French, private or white labels in English. They refer to these collections created by large stores or distributors, sold in the middle of the other claws. This is the case, for example, Brummell in the Spring of Balthazar au Bon Marché and Galleries Lafayette for the brand of the same name. An economic model former of which today remains surprisingly relevant to the physical stores as online business. Moreover, the merchant sites, the more powerful have also developed their trademark white: Mr Porter and his label Mr P., Matchesfashion and Raey, the multi-brand French The Exception, and his locker room Except Paris, Yoox and its all-new mixed collection 8 by Yoox (read below). Even Asos, the English site focused 200 % on the millennials, is made, with Asos White Man (that is in addition to Asos White Woman, launched in 2014).
All of these proposals do not obey the same criteria. But they still inherit the historical model, that of the department stores in which the idea has always been to imagine and make a claw on their image. “as early As the year 1900, because the vocation of the Galeries Lafayette department store is to make fashion accessible to all, we proposed our brand for the women at a fair price. The equivalent for the man to arrive in the 1920s, emphasizes Elisabeth Cazorla, director of purchasing ready-to-wear, national brands and own brands of the Galeries Lafayette department store. The roots are very deep, which is fabulous for us.” A heritage which also enjoys The Spring, which begins to spread its masculine line, Brummell, in the 1930s (but has not proposed for women 2015 accessories, and in the fall of 2017, ready-to-wear). On the left bank, the customers of the cheap have discovered, in 1994, Balthazar (2013 for the female).
Mix the basic and fashion pieces
For a long time, these collections sought to offer the classic, accessible, complementing the offer from the clutches of ready-to-wear focused more on the trends of the season. But the style of these scales has significantly evolved under the influence of the new own brands from the Internet. Now, almost all the actors do not hesitate to mix essential and other good basic, timeless products with a lot more fashion. All, yet, have in-house teams responsible for designing these collections, and if external collaborators are often referred to as reinforcement, it is more rare to see a name of the creator. Yet this is what has chosen Régis Pennel, The Exception, communicating around its artistic director, Rémi de Laquintane. For their part, the Galeries Lafayette department store had to call Laetitia Ivanez, the origin of the Prairies of Paris, to redesign their ready-to-wear woman in 2016, also with the force of the communication. The collections of the creative know how to stand out with a bias mode is assumed, without being too much of a follower. This collaboration will stop after the spring-summer 2019.
So, yesterday, a large department store adapted its collections according to the customer returns to the shop, today, the data collected on the Web allow you to fine-tune incredibly the offer. “the creation of The label Mr P. has benefited from seven years of analysis of information on the purchasing behavior of the customers, on their comments, testifies to Fiona Firth, director of purchases from Mr Porter. These data are priceless and allowed us to present a pertinent brand with launches of products just at the right time.”
These features may have their disadvantages. Thus, the multi-brand online – that offer the parts, the more sophisticated – may they not over-shadow the collections they distribute elsewhere? “Not at all, slice Régis Pennel, founder and president of The Exception. besides, our suppliers, so the marks would ask me regularly: “Why don’t you have even launched your brand?” It was in the logic of things, and many congratulated us.” Of the same, the inspiration of these new labels is not too close to the trademark hype of the moment, since the sites know so well what is selling at the moment T, and what begins to emerge? “In general, it is rather the reverse. Thanks to our team dedicated to the trends, we are never followers, refutes Nick Eley, director of collections and ready-to-wear Asos White Man. We are a shoe young, made by and for the new generation, and in it, we remain very agile.”
An operation winning
The other big advantage of these white markings is to provide intermediary and therefore allow for higher margins for the retailers… which, logically, give them increasing visibility in their own stores or on their website. “The man reached over 10 % of the turnover of the formal segment. The acreage that is dedicated to him on the set of stores has increased by 30 % between 2014 and 2018”, indicates Elizabeth Miquel, director of purchasing house and the brand of Spring.
For the customers also, the operation is winning with boutique prices between 20 % and 30 % lower than the equivalent offer in marks referring. So much so that the strategy of these labels most often implies a good quality-price ratio, or even a manufacturing european and even French on some families of products (in particular the cheap and Spring). “Certainly, we want to develop our brands, which represent up to 5 % of the sales in their respective segment, but not seek the lowest price, confirms Catherine Newey, sales director of the Bon Marché. A merino wool sweater knitted in Italy is sold for 90 euros. The shirt made in Europe displays the same price. We would like to offer a quality product made by people mastering the know-how.”
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