This is not about to reconcile Jacobins and Girondins. Because the case is size. Would you believe that the canelés, small cakes, caramel color in the form of cylinders striated, are a speciality of bordeaux. For a long time, it could not be enjoyed on site or in the immediate vicinity. And as they were particularly addictive, it pleaded more than any legislative vote in favor of decentralization. However, the origin of these pastries is mysterious, they appear officially in the 1930s, and then fall in disgrace after the Second world War, to finally reappear at the beginning of the 1980s under the leadership of Jacques Chaban-Delmas, mayor of Bordeaux and the end of promoter of his city. This is also the time when Jean-Luc Poujauran, a baker, a native of Mont-de-Marsan, is very interested in the recipe and decided to export it to Paris with the success that we know. We, therefore, could not have dreamt of a better expert to the list!

Because the canelés, including the preparation seems so simple (of the pancake batter well sweetened, flavored with rum and vanilla before being cooked in a small copper mould, conductor of heat), are in fact more subtle than it seems. It is the combination of the outside caramelized and the inside creamy, which creates the click sound greedy. Everything depends, therefore, on a baking well-controlled, which prevents the core rubber as the mantle burned down. Ransom of success, the canelés, today is acclaimed by lovers of the more numerous, multiply in the windows of bakeries. For they are at their best, they must be fresh of the day (out of the oven, warm, it is absolute happiness), the conservation is not suitable little. In summary, it is too fragile, tender and crispy at the same time, we welcome that they have become… if in paris.

” READ ALSO – Jean-Luc Poujauran: “You can do anything with a canelé”


Test. After the”exoticism” of the pasteis de nata, small custard lusitanians have become indispensable in the parisian landscape, we continue our road trip greedy, this time with the canelés in bordeaux. Less distant, they come to us from the city of Bordeaux and tell in their own way the history of the city of the gironde department, when the rum and the scent of vanilla, spoke of the islands and the trade not always fair… In Paris, there were until recently several antennas in bordeaux (Baillardran), who had contributed to this area of the gironde department. They are becoming rare and today they are the bakers and pastry chefs in the capital who have taken up the torch. For this list, we selected a dozen that we have all said the produce themselves.

Method. The canelés were purchased anonymously on the morning of the tasting by the journalists of the topic Restaurants. They were then numbered and tasted them blind, in the presence of our expert, chef Jean-Luc Poujauran, a great specialist of the canelé.

selected Criteria. They are the number of 4, scored each on 5 points, for a final score out of 20. Either the aspect (color, shape, size), texture (master of the cooking through the mix of crunchy-chewy), the taste (that of the mold was sometimes inadvertently migrated out of the cake…) and finally the quality-price ratio, which can be used to weight the three previous criteria, ranging in price from 1,50 € to 3,70 €.

Results. This is the canelé from michelin-starred chef Thierry Marx is the winner, followed very closely by those of Mori Yoshida and Lemoine.

” Show the table of results


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