The blue work is typical of the locker room French , note Paul Ben Chemhoun, founder of Gross’s Vintage Archives, a thrift-shop online become a benchmark in the field of clothing, utilities, second hand. This jacket with three patch pockets by moleskine, which does not exist as such in Italy or in England, has been a strong trend abroad. ” Thomas Giorgetti remembers, however, the mixed reception it received in 2008, Bleu de Paname, his brand of menswear based on the coat of worker. “ ten years ago, the sellers of the bullets threw cartons whole overalls to the dumpster. It was a time of workwear american, and the youth swore by Carhartt and G-Star, he says. the movements of The street (streetwear, punk, hip-hop) have always recovered in one way or another, the garment of work for a simple reason: with little money, it allows you to create an identity and give themselves a distinct look. ”
“Our grandparents wore : it is our madeleine de Proust”
In the showroom Gross’s Vintage Archives installed in the East of paris, one finds wonders ” for a clientele of bargain hunters advised “, the coat of the work of the French navy of the 1930s, ” not found elsewhere with its asymmetric pocket “, to that of a fireman the beginning of the Twentieth century, with gold braid on the collar, ” discovery Drouot “. But what he sells, the more in line they are for stocks dating back to the Thirty Glorious years. “ today, this little jacket comes off everywhere, confirms the fripier old on eBay but new at Celio. “, which was Launched last autumn, the model at the low price of the French brand has sold like hotcakes across the country. Strong of this success, it is renewed, this season, and is available in two additional colors.
Lafont COSTANZA CANALI
” We are the first generation to wear blue to work uninhibited , advance the forties. Our grandparents wore : it is our madeleine de Proust. “
A single memory of childhood for Louis-Marie de Castelbajac: “ My grandma owned a garment factory. When I was a child, blouses work that the workers have appropriated and customised fascinated me. I loved the way this garment, impersonal at the start, became so intimate with the time, like a second skin. “
Like many men of his generation, the son of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac (which has reset to the mode to late 1970’s) has found in a thrift store “ his ” jacket Lafont after the war. “ She became my fetish. Its shape is almost perfect. I wear it constantly and I have a custom of a thousand small badges representing each town in France where I spend. ”
The swiss army knife of the wardrobe
last year, Louis-Marie de Castelbajac contact the owner family of Lafont, the company is emblematic of the business dress (at the origin of the overalls and the first jacket of carpenter and Coltin, 1844). The feeling is, the designer became the artistic director of Lafont 1844 with the purpose of” infuse a bit of whimsy to a garment can not be more basic. The interest is not to re-edit copies, but the modernization of this universe, yet it fits perfectly to the questionings of our time. In the age of overconsumption and the fast fashion , it is the garment “swiss army knife”, the habit of the ultimate. You don’t need to buy ten. ”
In the 1930s, the blue work is the ideal dress of the futurists
To Olivier Saillard, former director of the Musée Galliera, now at the head of the creations of J. M. Weston and a great fan of the genre, ” the blue work is a uniform that is more radical than the mode “. In the 1930s, it is the ideal dress of the futurists. In the 1970s until the early 1980s, two designers, Michel Schreiber and Patrick Hollington, dress artists and intellectuals, from Paco Rabanne to François Mitterrand, a model without a collar or neckline as a carpenter. “ Its success was linked to the hippie movement, claims anti-capitalist. The men were then at Schreiber Hollington as the women in John Book. In many ways, the period between the two world wars and the 1970s, electrical, and saturated look at the time out of breath in which we live “, compare Olivier Saillard.
Bleu de Paname Bleu de Paname
Our contemporary really like this outfit, simple in response to the overflow of trends and to give a meaning to their dressing room? “ This is rather the brands that seek to take ownership of his scope humanist, antisystème , grade Paul Ben Chemhoun which sees, in its stock vintage, designers of luxury homes and the large-scale distribution. This storytelling is a little convenient. As for clients, I’m not sure that this is the nostalgia or utopia behind, which motivates them. For them, it is simply a garment to cool. ” Is a jacket easy to wear, practical, and versatile, built for daily life in urban areas. Its indigo blue (” blue dead stock ” so say the purists) goes with everything. “ the More it is worn and it is portable. This is the mode, not! ” just kidding Mr. Ben Chemhoun. But do not go into the first shop professional come to acquire it. “ The current models are what we call “blue Bugatti”, the agent EDF, garish, almost unwearable. To the extent that they are made of polycotton, warmer, more rigid .”
also, be Aware that the overcoat on a hipster ascending bobo may come as a surprise. “ I had a discussion with the aunt of my wife is shocked that I’m wearing a blue work , tells the story of Mr. Ben Chemhoun, velvet jacket élimée, chinos, Converse and a beard of three days expertly cut. It comes from the region of Saint-Étienne, she saw her father wearing them, and drew no pride. “” This garment is still confined to the urban trendy , confirms Thomas Giorgetti which organizations yet, collection after collection, Bleu de Paname, to make a garment universal. I’m not sure that a man in a blue work in an area a little more rural will not be taken for that to come mow the lawn. Paradoxically, it remains the attribute of the environments irreverent well-behaved. ”