Classic of the culinary repertoire in French, the pie combines three jobs: a baker, a butcher and a cook. His championship of the world, born in 2009, has taken an extraordinary extent. Caterers modest as restaurants 3 star the world participate in this amazing and friendly competition, asking serious knowledge and a true talent. The magic of the pie lies in its recipe, which does not really exist: the chief artist may imagine, interpret, invent, indulge in his inspired wandering. Thus, each block becomes a surprise and makes you forget the descent into hell of this true national treasure, came from the Middle Ages. As the pie had, in recent years, a bad reputation. Sloppy, betrayed, disfigured by chefs in a hurry and without talent, he had become a great banality: pate, softened, frozen, industrial, prank end of the bottom pieces.
The recipies allowed, however, to the honored master of house passionate about cooking to realize, among them, authentic and delicious pies.
Yohan Lastre (standing centre), world champion in 2012, became a caterer in Paris. ©David Japy
This is the championship of the world, an idea of four friends from lyon, who has brought the taste of this famous pie. Gilles Demange, merchant, bedding, Arnaud Bernollin, designer kitchens, Christophe Marguin, president of the Toques blanches lyonnaise, and Audrey Merle, press officer, were determined to raise this monument in danger.
The world championship saved the pie-crust. Those who were nerdy and outdated are modest, changing soon to notice. Thanks to the four musketeers lyonnais, its preparation, and ennobled, to be interpreted by traders and heads of talent, has become trendy. The alleged revolution of taste, it is, above all, enjoy. The success of the event has served as a accelerator to the imagination. The pie-crust, served often as an amuse-bouche, became a flat, prestigious and sought-after, gracing the cards of larger houses.
After the triumph, this winter, Daniel Gobet, catering to Divonne-les-Bains, here are three other great chiefs, champions of the world, artisans of the return of this jewel of the France that we love.
Joseph Viola, meilleur ouvrier de France and owner of three bouchons lyonnais, Daniel & Denise, has won the first championship in 2009. The stuffing consisted mainly of throat of pork, rump of veal, chicken liver, foie gras cru de canard. The brasserie 114 Faubourg in the Bristol hotel in Paris, one serves at each service the pie-crust eric Desbordes, world champion 2011: pig ibaïama, lard of Colonnata, duck foie gras and other poultry. Eric Desbordes is no longer working in Bristol, but her recipe has never left the card out and supervised by the 3-star Eric Frechon.
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After the descent to the underworld, a flat, prestigious and sought-after
“Pâté in crust. ecettes & techniques”, Marion Sonier and Yohan Lastre, photos by David Japy, Marabout, 208 p., 29 €. A comprehensive book catering to the rue de Grenelle in Paris, specializing in number one of all the pies-crust. All of the recipes, all the practical information and the tools to begin, at home, in the making of a pie. pie, editions Marabout, copyright David Japy
Yohan Lastre , at the Ritz in 2001, former deputy chief of the Silver Tower, from 2010 to 2015, has become world champion in 2012. Which has decided to open a store of his own, 188, rue de Grenelle, in Paris, with his wife, Marion Sonier, very involved. In Yohan, the pie is divided over the days. His stroke of genius is to invite new products in his compositions. He has just published a book with his wife, Pie. Recipes & techniques, where it is proposed, close to the classic “very” pig”, a recipe for rabbit in mustard and thyme ; the deer to the devil ; and the artichokes and foie gras ; stuffed tomatoes ; scallops ; “the sea”, with cuttlefish ink, whiting, monkfish, squid ; tatin, jelly and calvados ; the chocolate and hazelnuts. Like how the pie lends itself to all fantasies for cooks and pastry chefs, a thorough understanding of their business. Because, in the pie-crust, there’s the stuffing, but also the jelly and the paste. For his part, Jean-François Malle, world champion 2013, is inspired by a fresco in a grid pattern observed during a visit to the gallo-roman museum of Lyon. He serves his pie-crust appetizer at The restaurant la Rotonde in Charbonnieres-les-Bains.
Aurélien Vidal (the Vidal restaurant in Saint-Julien-Chapteuil, Haute-Loire), third in the world championship 2017, five hours to climb its pie-crust, comes to innovate by abandoning exceptionally meats and cold cuts. Its pie-crust with vegetables, carrots of all colors, parsnip, celery, beetroot, is accompanied by a jelly of agar-agar.
The pie-crust? What a job! Yohan Lastre, a chef-caterer-explorer-tester of pies-crust the most improbable, is formal: “It takes three full days to carry out a good dough, a good joke, a good jelly.” Note, the dexterity of the japanese chefs to make this masterpiece.