Change the look of the shoe boxes. Before designing his first pair, this was the first project of Olivier Saillard. “The taupe color of the boxes was very connoted 90s, recognizes the artistic director, named to the summer of 2017. And I wanted the clients to be able to be home to a museum with their shoes.” It is by visiting the manufacture and the archives of the house created in Limoges in 1891 where he found inspiration. These days, the new boxes arrive at the new flagship of J. M. Weston, on the Champs-Élysées. Their colour? A blue inspired enamels of Limoges, blue work, but also a plan of the former factory, dating back to the beginning of the last century.

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The packaging Dior homme. Dior Homme

This renewal is far from being a detail. As far as the logo, the cardboard boxes and paper bags in assorted with whom the clients come out of the shops are a sign of recognition. Luxury homes have rediscovered the power of the medium, and renew their packaging. Alessandro Michele has initiated the movement shortly after his appointment as artistic director of Gucci, surrendering to the summer of 2015 the packaging history of the renowned florentine. To the dustbin, boxes, and paper bags covered with a brown glossy hit of the famous GG. Place to a decor is more restrained, white with grey piping.

in Order to illustrate its ability to reinvent itself, Louis Vuitton has also denied the existence of the brown history of its boxes in the summer of 2016. For decades, this color echoed that of his iconic coated canvas. The new signature is inspired from the trunk to the cabin Citroën, carried out for the Cruise Black launched by the manufacturer in auto in 1924. The “saffron imperial” covers now the boxes and bags. “The light tone of the slices and interiors of the new packaging evokes the natural leather used since 1860 by the house, particularly to the handles or labels of bags, luggage and trunks”, stated the press release distributed by Louis Vuitton. Home, assured that she was “faithful to her legacy of packer”. Before founding his own house in 1854, Louis Vuitton had started out as an apprentice cabinet making, packing cases of wealthy clients from the trip.

If the packaging becomes essential for luxury homes, it is also because they sell more online. For a long time, they refused to convert to e-commerce, convinced that a customer experience of luxury included a passage in the shop. Hastened by the success of sites multi-brand (Net-A-Porter, Matchesfashion.com, Mytheresa), they have come to solve. But you can not make the slightest concession.

Rethink bags and boxes has been the first project of Olivier Saillard to his arrival as artistic director of J. M. Weston. Ivan Letessier / photos Pierre-Olivier Deshamps

“The expectations of online customers are the same as those in the boutiques, observes Grégory Boutté, director of the digital and client relationship at Kering. We seek to deliver an experience in luxury throughout their journey, the site of the discovery of the product. The packaging carried out in our shipping centers is a crucial step. In the same way as we think of the ceremonial of the sale in the shop, we need to create the experience as magical as possible when the client on the Internet will open the parcel.”

the Same analysis at Hermes. “We consider e-commerce as a complement to the in-store experience, in the framework of an ecosystem interactive, confirms Florian Craen, executive director commercial of the saddle. So we thought our call centers as our stores, with the same requirement and the same quality of service. For Europe, the call center is as well installed in Paris, next to our manufactory in the faubourg Saint-Antoine. The teams, as our vendors have a thorough knowledge of the products.”

But the more important thing is the box, as the customers are likely to post the photo on their account Instagram. “The unboxing is a moment of truth. This is where a virtual experience of our clients becomes emotion”, decrypts Jens Riewenherm, Chief digital officer of Dior. Ex-boss of Mytheresa, he was recruited by Pietro Beccari, president and CEO of Dior, to accompany the acceleration of the house on the Internet.

The most advanced on the subject are the pure players of e-commerce of luxury. “It takes an unboxing experience as luxurious as possible, says Tom Parr, boss of sales of Mr Porter, male counterpart of Net-A-Porter. It must convey the identity of our brand.” In Matchesfashion.com the marble décor of the boxes acts as a logo. “Our marble box, it is our visual identity, and a great tool for social networks,” says Ulric Jerome, the patron saint of French this british site known for its selection of products and its ability to unearth new designers. The e-retailer has six sizes of box, each with a color and a decor different. “All of the seasons, we change one of the six reasons,” says Ulric Jerome. Bet on the unboxing experience is an investment in communication and loyalty. Our customers collect the boxes.”

to Ensure the surprise effect of The experts in the e-commerce of luxury have the same attention to detail as the houses. MatchesFashion

In 24Sevres, the e-commerce site launched by LVMH in 2016, the topic has been treated from the start of the project. An artistic team coming from at Louis Vuitton has worked on the packaging at the same time that computer scientists were working on the site. Eric Goguey, general manager of 24Sevres, entrusted them with the mission of “cause five seconds of a smile at the opening of the parcel”. “Nobody was telling a story different from that of the store, with a node on the box, says the boss. The dimension of surprise is important. We would have loved the principle of a music box that transports you back to childhood.” Too complicated. After three prototypes, the site has focused its choice on a pop-up in three dimensions attached to the top of the box, which unfolds upon opening of the shipping container. The decor changes every three months: for the holidays, it will be a Eiffel tower disguised as a Christmas tree. A card handwritten with the recipient’s first name appeared in the box.

The experts of the e-commerce of luxury have the same attention to detail as the houses. “Before we start, we have phosphorous on the size of the boxes, the weight of the magnet, the way of folding clothes, or even the number of sheets of tissue paper used to pack a garment, says Ulric Jerome. It took months to understand our DNA to our logistics partner.” The am groupéricain XPO manages the gigantic warehouse of 50,000 square meters, which was installed in August in a hangar anonymous (security forces) of London not far from Heathrow airport.

There, the atmosphere has nothing to do with the universe automated and the pace of the inferno to the Amazon. “There is a time packaging is incompressible, which is part of the experience, he says. Our employees prepare 6 to 8 orders per hour. These are the small hands of matchesfashion.com.” As in the workshops of couture, these workers are wearing a white blouse, without a belt or button not to damage the clothes, bags and shoes. White gloves for hands, they bend, inspect, fold and snap the clothes in the boxes, with as much preciousness as sales assistants in the shop. Before closing the box, they will place a card signed of their hand.

“We need to create the experience as magical as possible when the client on the Internet will open his package,” says at Kering

At Kering, each house has its mode of employment, delivered to the packers. A precise detailing of the 20 steps in the “ceremony package”, which can last 20 to 30 minutes per package. Before closing the box, the order pickers of the Gucci must spray perfume on the tissue paper covering the articles.

To the pure players in e-commerce, as this site English, the packaging is crucial because it acts as the visual identity and is often posted on social networks by customers. The ceremony package can last up to 30 minutes. MatchesFashion

Aware of the issue, the luxury homes are a blend of innovation to differentiate themselves. Dior is on the verge of revolutionizing its shipping boxes. The outside remains the same as that of any parcel, so as not to arouse temptations. But from the end of November, the interior will look like a real scenery, white for the ladies, dark blue for men. After discarding the tissue paper, the clients will discover their box, posed as in a jewel box. “Dior.com enables us to attract new consumers,” said Jens Riewenherm. Their first physical contact with the house is the reception of the parcel. It is important to ensure that the experience is a memorable one.” For that the customers have desire to explore the shops.

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