Quenelle de brochet Nantua sauce to The Chicken in the Pot
The place. , And four for Jean-François Piège! After its two Clover – Green (Seventh) and the Grill (Ier) – and his Great Restaurant (Eighth), chef’s hat and starry television has recently taken over this institution in his les Halles. He has maliciously left in its juice tradi: wallpaper vintage flowers, benches, Moleskine, wood chairs…
The dish. in Addition to the flat totem which gives its name to the place, the kitchen a bourgeois and classic truste obviously the card. The image of the omelette with mushrooms, shepherd’s pie or the quenelle de brochet, a model of taste in the genre. Moulded as a small side, it is topped with a delicious Nantua sauce in which to bathe some crawfish and fresh spinach… Sauçage mandatory!
Bravo. The atmosphere, the small inserts of brass in the name of the stars come to dine, adding to the glamour! Among the latter, those of Blake Lively and Ryan Reynolds are great friends of the couple Trap.
Damage. No valet parking in an area not easily accessible by car.
Poule au Pot. 9, rue Vauvilliers (Ier). Tel.: 01 42 36 32 96. Everyday. Formula: 48 €. Card: 45-115 €.
stuffed Cabbage to The Ascension
The place. here’s something that has surprised everyone! With serious but without taking itself too seriously, this bistro at the beautiful contemporary decor (stone walls, shades of taupe and green) is becoming a classic in the area. And at noon, the tables of colleagues untied the tie around a nice kitchen to market: egg calf and dark mushrooms, breast of veal, and tatin of carrots, fillet of beef with sauce Choron.
The dish. Ah, stuffed cabbage! A timeless classic of our plates, as dumb as… cabbage on the paper, but much more complicated than that to cook. And especially to succeed! Drawn completely at random from the lunch menu of the day, it arrives in a generous portion, dapper as any with its outer leaves well roasted, the stuffing goûtue (a bit too peppery), mirepoix of vegetables, its delicious juices. What to advocate for as it installs permanently to the card!
Bravo. The report quality-price lunch menu.
Damage. The wines by the glass not very exciting.
The Ascension. 67, rue de Clichy (IXe). Tel.: 01 42 40 28 47. Everyday sf dim. Formula: 28 € (déj.). Card: 40-50 €.
Bouillabaisse in Baieta The bouillabaieta Julia Sedefdjian in Baieta (Ve). Pierre Lucet Penato
The place. The youngest-starred chef Michelin in France – at the age of 21 in the Fables of la Fontaine opened its first “at home” in the spring, in the old Routes. A “kiss” – in the patois of nice, a region of origin to which Julia Sedefdjian pays tribute here to the chic décor and contemporary light wood tables, kitchen window on the room), which has just packed up the critical.
The dish. Among the dishes from the sunny south of her childhood, as she revisits (aioli, small stuffed), the staple of specialty marseillaise, néologisée “bouillabaieta”, is a figure of signature (36 €). Puree of fennel, fish fillets perfectly cooked (monkfish, saint-pierre, rascasse) and shavings of fennel raw anointed in the room of a soup velvety fish powerful and iodine, while croutons and rust house patiently wait on the side. To slurper until the last drop!
Bravo. To prolong the evening around a good rum bar, caribbean Bo, freshly inaugurated by the young woman, two not.
Damage. Some of the tables a bit stuck-tight.
Baieta. 5, rue de Pontoise (Ve). Tel.: 01 42 02 59 19. Everyday sf dim. and lun. Formula: 29 (déj.), 45 and 85 €. Card: 50-75 €.
Pot-au-feu in (V)ivre canal Saint-Martin
The place. The second address, after the Opera Garnier, Caroline Savoy, daughter of the triple michelin-starred, displays a warm décor, while aged wood (the front of the rotisserie Patache remained), blue walls duck and banquettes in velvet ochre.
The dish. To the card, a little bit foutraque, including a weekly diary of “cocottes of the moment” (19 €): blanquette of veal on Thursday, bouillabaisse on Friday, kidneys flambé Saturday, and pot-au-feu on Wednesday, the day of our passage. Served in its cooking pot The melting pot for two persons, or to the plate in a dressage modern solo, the dish is comforting to your desire (without being too rich): spicy broth, meat, melting, mixed vegetables… not to mention the small toast with crispy bone marrow and coarse salt, ultra-greedy.
Bravo. desserts in jars is successful, the coffee of Hippolyte Courty.
Damage. The service is too slow, this afternoon.
(V)ivre canal Saint-Martin. 60 rue de Lancry (Xe). Tel.: 01 42 40 73 38. Everyday sf dim. (din.), lun. and mar. Formula: 16 (déj.), 39, 59, 65 and 98 €. Brunch on sun. at 39 €. Card: 30-45 €.
Shoulder of lamb confit with home Accents
The place. The room, both stripped and refined with its beautiful materials, its lighting and cared for her bouquets of flowers, is under the influence of the franco-japanese, marked by the personalities of the manager, pastry chef, Ayumi Sugiyama, and the chef, Roman Mahi. A beautiful zen atmosphere and contemporary.
The dish. Products from a sustainable agriculture and respect for the seasons inspired by the kitchen house. Evidenced by the shoulder of lamb, confit shallots, jerusalem artichokes and chervil hemangioma (24 €): a plate fall to the tastes soft and felted, a little plain but very pretty bill.
Bravo. The welcome delicious, the slices of chiffon cake offered with the coffee.
Damage. The portions are a bit precious.
Accents. 24, rue Feydeau (IIe). Tel.: 01 40 39 92 88. Everyday sf dim. and lun. Menus: 39, and 52 € (déj.) ; 62, 68 and 73 € (deen.). Card: 50-70 €.
Hen the white in Cadoret, The Cadoret (Xix). LUCIEN LUNG/Le Figaro
The place. Not-rich tables are well known, the North-East of paris remains a stronghold of the bistrote. With the Pitch in the gondola head, Quedubon that has just been resumed, the Mensae of Thibault Sombardier… and this newcomer. Highly recommendable, it looks primed to troquet everything there is more classic, if not the shelves at wine and design and the open kitchen.
The dish. Accustomed to the map, the hen is the white version norman of the chicken in every pot – is a must eat ! It soothes immediately with its sauce crémée well nappante, carrots and leeks pétaradants of colors and cooked to perfection and, most importantly, the meat (chicken extra the poultry farm Large Fields) soft and his skin was well grilled… in Another dish, already cult of the slate: the Scotch egg, star classic also, but of the british cuisine (an egg mollet, surrounded by sausage meat, breaded and fried).
Bravo. All of the wines nature that we love, by the glass or by the bottle, but also excellent beer.
Damage. The paleron of beef with dauphine potatoes crunched recently, which was missing definitely a little something.
The Cadoret. 1, rue Pradier (Xix). Tel.: 01 53 21 92 13. Everyday sf dim. and lun. Formula: 17,50 and 20 € (déj.). Carte: about 40 €.
Cassoulet at Auberge Pyrenees Cevennes
The place. The chief Stone Négrevergne (ex-Terrace Mirabeau) has taken over the past few months this institution out of time descried in the first OSS 117 . But phew, the framework has not moved! Checkered tablecloths purple, ham and rosette hung from the ceiling, tomettes and hunting trophies continue to transport us in the middle of a hostel of province… to two not of the Republic.
The dish. If the new taulier and put his paw on the card – including via an excellent pie crust, duck-and foie gras -, it always celebrates the local cuisine, to the picture of the stew (a bit bland) or the cassoulet, a dish that the flagship of the house (26,90 €). Ultra-rich, he arrives in the room in his frying pan copper-trimmed white beans farms and fluxes at the same time, sausage, duck confit and pork belly, simmered in a tomato sauce tasty. Reserved for stomachs are strong!
Bravo. the generosity of The plates, the framework in its own juice.
Damage. The customer 100 % male (or almost), this evening.
Auberge Pyrenees Cevennes. 106, rue de la Folie-Mericourt (Xi). Tel.: 01 43 57 33 78. Everyday sf sam. (déj.) and dim.Formula: 36 €. Card: 45-60 €.
The Blue Train
the furnaces of The spectacular buffet Belle Époque gare de Lyon train station come to be taken up by the house Rostang, who bichonne ravioli Novels to the broth of chicken, quenelles de brochet sauce Newburg, or veal Foyot.
The Blue Train. Gare de Lyon (Xii). Tel.: 01 43 43 09 06. Everyday. Card: 60-100 €.
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The second “road” team of the Steps (Xvi), inaugurated in the beginning of the year, in a retro décor, is not the classic beer sauce: eggs meurette, stuffed cabbage, pot-au-feu, vegetarian, quenelles of pike…
The Good Wines. 54, rue Godefroy-Cavaignac (Xi). Tel.: 01 45 67 21 13. Everyday. Carte: 25-40 €.
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The young chef Stéphane Browne, dedicated to “Young Talent 2017” by Gault&Millau, has returned to this little bistro two dishes of the Aligre market. Suffice to say that the proposals will change at each service, inspired by the animal feed of the day. It was during this dinner, a friendly guinea fowl poached, parsnip and jerusalem artichoke.
Us 4. 3, rue Beccaria (Xii). Tel.: 01 75 57 77 48. Everyday sf dim. and lun. Formulas 20 € (déj.) and 30 € (din.), menus at 25 € (déj.), 37 € and 58 € (deen.). Card: 30-40 €.
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